Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/25/2009(UTC)
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I need to replace the Thrust plug p/n 285352 on Kenmore washer Model 110.22912100 Gear case P/n 3360630.
How do you get the old one out. Have seen a post the drills a whole, inserts a screw and pulls it out. Assume this would not work for part two of Thrust plug part. Can it then be pryed out?
Second question I'd like to not break the top cover.
So how much does this unit hold? Plan on letting oil drain before I install new part and then add mesured amout of oil before putting part in. Would this be an ok fix? Need to know how much oil it holds.. A paperclip measure through vent whole does not seem to give consistant measurement ( and seems only go in about 1/2 way)
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Ok here’s what I did right or wrong.. as there were threats to go and buy a new washer/dryer if I didn’t get a move on…
I drilled two holes in the plug, put a sheet metal screw in and it pried it up enough to pull it out. The original is only a thin single plastic piece. Came out much easier than expected as I was thinking it was a pressed on metal bearing…
Because I didn’t want to break the seal to add oil and knew pretty much how much has leaked out.. I cut a piece of clear plastic and drilled a hole the same size of the gear shaft. Put it on and turned the gear case back flat and level. Looking through the clear plastic I could see the hole covered thus the overall oil level was above that. Since as noted I did know about how much oil was lost. I just gave it a about a ¼ cup. Probably more than what leaked but…. I check vent whole with paper clip dip stick did show oil what would seem to be a bit higher than lip. Good enough for me. If I knew how much a gear case held, I was going to drain the old and add the correct measured amount. If someone has to break one apart and add oil. If they measured it and posted it here, it would help others…
I didn’t know which of the two part new thrust plug (FSP P/N 285352) when on first and at 8 pm no one to call. So based on the bevel of the rubber, figured the smaller (red) one when on first (flat side first). I then put the other one on (flat side out). Slid right on and tapped it snug with a socket and rubber mallet. Be nice if someone could confirm this. However I can note that I have had no leaks after 3 loads of laundry…
Finally although not broken I was going to replace the coupler. I bought the new improved one with the metal insert (FSP P/N 285753A). It would not go on the shaft. Even with gentle tapping with rubber mallet… with socket and more rubber mallet force it did go on but it pulled the insert out. Wonder if this is a defect or if I’m just unlucky. Anyone know? Just put the old one in and working for now. Is this FSP part the correct sub for P/N 3364003 which was listed in manual?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Hi Hammer
Nice going on fixing the gear coupling. I am not sure you will get any response on whether or not what you did was correct, because most of us go ahead and replace the entire gear case assembly because we want to make certain the machine will work when we are done with it. It is more expensive then what you did, but reliability when working on someone elses machine is more important.
With respect to the coupling, when they went to metal inserts it did make it very difficult to get them on. I use machine oil on the shaft and gently tap with a socket to get the pieces flush with the shaft. It sounds like you go an especially tight one, so you did the right thing in putting the old one back on. Unless you continually overload the machine the old one should last a good long time, and now you know how to replace it and can see that it is not expensive if you do have to make the repair in the future.
Good luck with your machine.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Thanks! sidfink43
I called a local shop today to see what they said about it. So note to others who read this. This updated coupler is tight. The one I got may have been a bit more. There is a dimple in it that makes it tight and you do need to tap it on. So use a bit of oil as sifink43 suggest, use a socket BUT make sure it is small enough to ONLY touch the metal part and NOT the outer plastic..
If the old one fails I'll then go back and try again with new one s (i think i can tap the metal insert back into the plastic).
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