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boattox  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:00:16 PM(UTC)
boattox

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Joined: 3/28/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1

[FONT=&quot]My 2010 Maytag dryer has a mind of its own:cool:[/FONT]

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[FONT=&quot]Original problem: Dryer was running VERY hot, but working. Day later it would not start, no heat and no motor movement. Checked power, all good. Checked thermal fuses, both blown. I replaced The main thermostat, and both thermal fuses (did not replace hi-limit switch). After parts replacement, dryer SEEMED okay; BUT..........read on.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]New Problem: The dryer appears to start and run normally AFTER PRESSING THE START BUTTON and also "appears" to shut off and buzzer sounds when the timer reaches the "off" position. However, the timer continues to advance and passes through all of the cycles on its own. When it passes through a hot cycle the cabinet, drum, and top get very hot (no motor or blower action). Clearly the heating elements are being energized and heating the drum and cabinet (without motor or blower running)? Although, motor and blower will start If "START" button is pressed. Only way to stop this is to unplug the dryer.
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[FONT=&quot]What could cause this? Nut behind the wheel? I was careful [/FONT][FONT=&quot] (I think)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] in replacing all wires in their original positions when I replaced the afore mentioned parts. Could the timer have been the real issue that caused the dryer to overheat and damage these other parts in the first place? What would cause the timer to advance past the "off" position on its own?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, March 29, 2012 1:14:27 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MEDC400VW models | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Is the unit in a timed dry or an auto cycle type.
If in auto put it into timed dry and see if the timer stops.

The reason is that the timer gets power directly from the line during timed dry (uses TM/WB timer contacts) but in auto it gets power through the heating coil (uses TM/OR timer contacts) when the heating coil is shut off.

You will see one of the motor's centrifugal switches 1M/2M in the wiring diagram. This switch closes when the motor gets close to operating speed. It ensures that the heater only comes on after there is air flow.
Since you have no motor but heat the odds are there is a grounded element or a problem with the centrifugal switch.

My bets would be on the element.
Unplug the unit and both wires from the heating coil.
Measure the coil with a meter should be around 10 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the frame, both should be infinite ohms. Be sure to use an unpainted spot on the frame.
If not infinite ohms then the heating coil is grounded and needs replacing.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
MEDC400.pdf (602kb) downloaded 22 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
mrteeney  
#3 Posted : Sunday, August 4, 2013 8:46:40 AM(UTC)
mrteeney

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Joined: 8/4/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1

We have the same unit with the same problem, replaced the upper thermostat and the thermal fuse; it works but heats even when the door is open and will advance to the next cycle even after shutting off. I checked the heating coil and it looks like the high temp thermo (which was just replaced) shows continuity from the casing to the coil wires. The high temp thermostat mounts onto the casing so thats probably whats showing the continuity. I hope it's not the centrifugal switch since it looks like the motor would have to be replaced. Any ideas??
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