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I cannot keep my icemaker working in my whirlpool frig. I have bought probably 4 icemakers and after a few months to a year they have all quit working. The factory icemaker that came with the frig lasted the longest. The last one I bought (last October 2007) made ice for only a couple of months and it just quit producing ice, no warnings or wierd sounds. I have ckecked the fuse in the wire harness and there is continuity. I can pour water manually into the mold and it will cycle. But it doesn't seem to be calling for water or it is calling and not getting water. The ice makers prior to the last one made shells after a few months and then eventually quite working. I don't know what else to do and I am tired of buying ice makers. The freezer thermometer says 5 deg. Can you give me some advice?
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The first thing I would do is remove the cover from the ice maker and increase the water fill amount by turning the adjustment screw CCW for about 180°. If it would not help, then check for 120V coming to the water valve when the ice maker calls for water (the ejector blades are in 11:00 o'clock position). The power should present for about 7.5 to 9 seconds. Do not rotate the blades or the drive gear manually - it will damage the ice maker. If you need to advance the ice maker into the cycle, use a jumper (insulated piece of wire at least 14GA) to short the test points T & H. The shut-off arm must be in "on" position. If there is no power, then the problem is the wiring or the ice maker itself. If there is power, then the problem is the water inlet valve. Post the results, please. - The part number for the water inlet valve is AP3085178 - The part number for the replacement ice maker is AP2984633 - Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool refrigerator Model ED22PQXDW02Gene.
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Rank: Member
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where do I check the power at on the ice maker?
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Originally Posted by: jparte01  ....I can pour water manually into the mold and it will cycle..... It proves there is the power to the ice maker. Gene.
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I just tried to cross t and h with a wire, but the ejector blades did not rotate. Currently the ejector pins are in the 2:00 position and I have current across L-N and T-H, but no where else.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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If there is 120V across T & H, then the motor in the the ice maker is bad and the ice maker has to be replaced.
Gene.
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Thank you very much. You've been a big help.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Keep me updated, please.
Gene.
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My ice maker is inop. I did a full optics diagnostic for 2002 design boards and all checked IAW the proceedure. I am concrened that I do NOT have pwer (Volts) at the icemaker. Where/how do I check the power at on the ice maker connector/frig freezer side? I have volts on the Black wire in back if the frig at the connector...but i don't know if it is at the connect in the freezer.
With the icemaker installed, there is no Volts across L-N. I ohmed L to the ice recepticle black wire with .5 ohms. So, the thermal is not blown, correct?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Posts: 27,455
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ken311,
Check the wire harness by the bottom freezer door hinge.
Gene.
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