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Tookie White  
#1 Posted : Monday, March 19, 2012 6:50:55 PM(UTC)
Tookie White

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Cycle countdown reads 99. Cycle stuck on Regular Wash and cannot change cycle. When started everything appears to be running OK but Count Down does not change. Washer runs and never seems to stop.

I tried to RESET the unit by starting and pressing both the Scrub cycle and Econ cycle and holding for about 10 seconds but nothing changed and machice kept running. How do I get the unit to change cycle and complete cycle?

Thank you
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Thursday, March 22, 2012 8:37:45 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Turn the power off to the dishwasher for 20 to 30 minutes. This should give the memory chip time to clear itself. Then run the test mode, " To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “21” = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor "Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating."
If all checks are proper, and you still have an issue with the display, you'll need to replace the control assembly

Part number: AP2802870
Part number: AP2802870

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
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