Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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I have a kenmore refrigerator (model 601.57026601) and the ice maker just quit working. It's just my wife and I (no kids) so the use on the ice maker is very mild. There were no noises or hints that the nice maker was going to stop working. The water for drinking, in the front of the unit, works fine. I have read through the posts that describe what to check and how to diagnose the ice maker. I checked the voltage to the ice makers wiring harness (black and white leads) and at the ice maker (terminal check point locattions described with letters under the icemaker side cover). I only have 34 volts AC going to the ice maker. I feel there is a good chance the ice maker works fine, but where is my voltage drop coming from? I'm looking for any feedback from others that my have had the same experiance. I have an extensive electrical background and electrical multi-meter use, but do not have experiance with appliances.Any help would be great. Thanks
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,648
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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I printed out, read, and tried every procedure there was in the "Whirlpool ice maker repair guide" that was offered to me (in the link). However, my ice maker still does nothing. The "ice full" optics are in working order, I confirmed. I feel my biggest problem is that the ice maker only has 34 volts AC going to it and not the required 110. Does anyone know how this is possible??? Is there a circut board that those wires (going to the ice maker) comes from? Did something burnout there maybe? If you can think of anything else please let me know, my wife and I are tiring of buying ice from the gas station and filling up our "fancy" ice dispencer. Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to offer.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,648
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Did you try to jump the icemaker? By unplugging the refrigerator and jumping out the H and T test holes. Then closing the door and waiting a few seconds before opening the door to see if the icemaker is going through the cycle. If you did that and the icemaker didn’t go the cycle and the optics passed the test described on that page I believe the icemaker is bad you may be able to fix it with just the motor/modular but I don’t think it is much difference in the price of that and a new icemaker.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,648
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You will only get full voltage to the icemaker if the flapper that blocks the optics and the door switch are pressed in.
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