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The defrost thermostat is shown as #29 on the diagram. The defrost timer - #20 and the defrost heater - #36 on the same diagram. - The defrost thermostat Part number: AP4055031
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I think i have a defrost issue. Whirlpool model # GX5SHDXVA00. freezer cold, fridge warm, removed back wall in freezer and coils were incased in ice. defrosted coils and check continuity on evap heater, tested good. tested bi metal thermostat after i had defrosted everything and it ohmed out to 55 something warm. i put some ice in some water and dipped the bimetal tstat in that for 20 minutes and got the same reading. is this a bad reading? how do i test the thermistor? i couldnt tell how to take off the cover in the top of the fridge to get to the control board either. i did clean about a pound of dog hair off the coils under the fridge when we first noticed the fridge was getting warm. would this have caused the ice build up? I am a little irked that a 2 yr old fridge is broke. Thanks for any help you can provide!
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Sounds like the defrost thermostat has gone bad. Blocked condenser coils will cause the compressor to overheat, warmer temperature in both compartments and can cause a damage to the compressor. - The defrost thermostat Part number: AP4310486
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Hi Gene,
I have a KitchenAid refrigerator (KFCS22EVMS0) that has the thread title's exact problem: freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.
Before I get started I should mention that the control board and thermistor were replaced.
I ran the defrost mode through the electronic diagnostic menu and after a few minutes I heard the crackling noise associated with the defroster, I assume this means the heater works? Does this mean it could be the defrost thermostat (bi-metal)? I've read that maybe I could have a loose connection? I've also read that it could possibly be my start relay that attaches to the compressor?
These things seem like they are fairly easy to repair, but before I start breaking something how exactly does the back panel of the freezer come off on my model? Do you happen to know?
Thanks in advance for any suggestion(s) you may have.
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Hi Gene,
My fridge had this problem of not getting cold in bottom part and top part was working fine. As per instructions in your different posts, I removed the back panel. I saw that there was no snow on the coils but it could be because we left the fridge off for more than an hour. When I opened the back panel, the duct for airflow was blocked by ice and so was the fan. After removing all the ice, I checked the fan and it was working fine. The heater wire had resistance of 36.6 ohms. Is this ok?
Also when i was removing the back panel, I removed the temperature control knob in the front. Now it is working very loose like i forgot to put a washer or something. Is it OK to use as is?
Thanks for your help.
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Originally Posted by: element192  Hi Gene,
I have a KitchenAid refrigerator (KFCS22EVMS0) that has the thread title's exact problem: freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.
Before I get started I should mention that the control board and thermistor were replaced.
I ran the defrost mode through the electronic diagnostic menu and after a few minutes I heard the crackling noise associated with the defroster, I assume this means the heater works? Does this mean it could be the defrost thermostat (bi-metal)? I've read that maybe I could have a loose connection? I've also read that it could possibly be my start relay that attaches to the compressor?
These things seem like they are fairly easy to repair, but before I start breaking something how exactly does the back panel of the freezer come off on my model? Do you happen to know?
Thanks in advance for any suggestion(s) you may have. Before taking it apart... Did you run the whole Service Test, especially the Damper operation and the Fresh Food thermistor? I would suggest to go through the whole Service Test. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KFCS22EVMS00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Originally Posted by: tekno9000 Hi Gene,
My fridge had this problem of not getting cold in bottom part and top part was working fine. As per instructions in your different posts, I removed the back panel. I saw that there was no snow on the coils but it could be because we left the fridge off for more than an hour. When I opened the back panel, the duct for airflow was blocked by ice and so was the fan. After removing all the ice, I checked the fan and it was working fine. The heater wire had resistance of 36.6 ohms. Is this ok?
Also when i was removing the back panel, I removed the temperature control knob in the front. Now it is working very loose like i forgot to put a washer or something. Is it OK to use as is?
Thanks for your help. You may want to run the refrigerator for a few days watching the temperature in both compartments after you cleaned all this ice. Post the results. Gene.
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Hello,
I have a recurring problem with my GE Profile TBX22PRBSRWW refrigerator. Unit has door on top freezer / fresh food door bottom. There is a thru door ice/water dispenser in freezer area. Unit is approximately 10 yrs old. Over the course of several months frost will build up on the rear panel of the freezer area. There is a corresponding increase in temp in the fresh food area ( 49 degrees F this AM after being shut all night). This happened serveral months ago. I unplugged unit for 24 hrs and the problem went away until recently when it reared it's ugly head yet again.
I've seen in other posts something about turning a dial on a defrost timer. I've attempted to locate such a device but I don't see anything when I look inside the freezer or fresh food areas.
Any help in identifying the problem and possible solution would be greatly appreciated (my beer is getting warm ;) ).
Thanks,
JPC
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Originally Posted by: Gene Hi Gene, Thank you for the reply. Yes I did go through the whole Service Test. The damper open and closed when it was supposed to and the fresh food thermistor checked out fine, although it was just replaced last week to be safe: no change. In fact, the service technician just left my house minutes ago and still can't figure out what's wrong! He opened up the freezer fan shroud to check the fan and the coils. The fan was operating and blowing air upwards and there wasn't any frost on the coils. He seems to think it's some sort of air movement issue. He thinks maybe there is something wrong with the fan shroud? Or possibly that the air damper isn't opening as often as it should. He opened the damper up and then disconnected it so it is open all the time to test if the refrigerator temp goes down at all. I'm just about ready to throw this thing in the junk pile...
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Hi Gene,
I have a GE psh25mstasv side by side with similar a problem to others in this post (freez. fine refrid.warm).This is a unit with custom cool and a small evaporator coil in the fresh food compartment.
I checked the evap. coils in the freezer and there was a thick coat of frost a little snow.So I checked the coil in the refridg. and the coil is a solid block of snow and ice.I mean solid.
I looked thou the parts page and it doesn't show the freezer defrost heater ??? Is there a second one for the refridg. coil. besides the small one in the expresss cool bin?
Since I already had the insides out of both sides I checked the heater in the freezer, 22.3 ohms.Checked the defrost thermostat .1ohms both good as far as I can tell.The vent in to the custom cool box is clear. Not to sure what is going on in the back of the box.As I can't remove it with the coil iced over.Which is of course is the reason the refridg. side is not cooling for lack of air circulation.Should I be checking the heat mat in the express bin? do you have a procedure ?
The mother board,evap.fan with thermister were replaced 4 months ago when both side were not keeping temp.all has well untill this.
Not to sure what my next move is.
Thanks, for all your great work on this forum.
AJW
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