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Gene  
#201 Posted : Tuesday, April 2, 2013 7:22:47 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Posts: 27,455

Hello,

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the wire from the J9 terminal at the control board and check for continuity between this wire and the neutral wire connected to the J7-9. The normal reading suppose to be about 22 Ohms. If the reading is different, check the defrost heater and the overtemperature thermostat for continuity. Post the results.

Gene.
freddyrick  
#202 Posted : Wednesday, April 3, 2013 3:20:09 AM(UTC)
freddyrick

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Hello,

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the wire from the J9 terminal at the control board and check for continuity between this wire and the neutral wire connected to the J7-9. The normal reading suppose to be about 22 Ohms. If the reading is different, check the defrost heater and the overtemperature thermostat for continuity. Post the results.

Gene.


OK, is there a wiring schematic diagram posted anywhere? Just want to be sure I get J9 and J7-9 correct. Thanks.
Gene  
#203 Posted : Wednesday, April 3, 2013 10:51:24 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: freddyrick Go to Quoted Post
OK, is there a wiring schematic diagram posted anywhere? Just want to be sure I get J9 and J7-9 correct. Thanks.


I'm not sure how it can help you because all terminals and connectors are marked very clear but I attached it to the post.

Gene.
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freddyrick  
#204 Posted : Sunday, April 7, 2013 7:33:52 AM(UTC)
freddyrick

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
I'm not sure how it can help you because all terminals and connectors are marked very clear but I attached it to the post.

Gene.


Got it. Thank you.
urstrinath  
#205 Posted : Sunday, June 9, 2013 10:37:39 PM(UTC)
urstrinath

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Thanks for sharing the information ......is it the same procedure for all kind of brands....?
GBEARSS  
#206 Posted : Saturday, June 29, 2013 5:27:12 PM(UTC)
GBEARSS

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
I don't see anything else at this time.

Gene.
Hi, Bought house with GE fridge Model; GSS20IETAWW that warms up second time in 3 wks. Bought new cond. fan motor last time ,havn't installed yet. New fridge 2K,not likely.What should I be looking for to test. Your experience base seems quit broad.thanks in advance. Glenn.
tyndall00  
#207 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:50:32 PM(UTC)
tyndall00

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Unplug the refrigerator before going further!

Disassemble procedure:

1. Remove the four ¼” ice maker bracket screws located at the four corners of the bracket.

2. Remove the two ¼” ice dispenser drive mounting bracket screws and remove the brackets.

3. Remove the two ¼” upper evaporator fan ductwork screws.

4. Unlock the tabs and remove the lower evaporator fan ductwork.

5. Remove the four ¼” evaporator cover screws and remove the cover.

6. Remove the two ¼” upper evaporator fan duct work screws located at the lower portion of the ductwork.

7. Using a small flat screwdriver, unlock the tabs for the ice maker and dispenser cables.

8. Slide the upper fan ductwork out.

9. Disconnect the evaporator fan wiring harness.


To test the evaporator fan motor skip to the test procedure, otherwise proceed further.


10. Remove the ¼” screw for the evaporator fan ground wire.

11. Remove the two ¼” evaporator fan bracket mounting screws located at either side of the bracket.

12. Remove the evaporator fan assembly.

NOTE: The evaporator thermistor must be replaced when replacing the fan.


The evaporator fan motor test procedure:

1. Unplug the refrigerator to reset the main control board.

2. Warm up the freezer thermistor to 70°F and set the temperature controls to middle settings.

3. Reconnect the power.

4. Check for 13 VDC from the red to the white wire and between 8 to 13 VDC from the white to the yellow wire at the evaporator fan connector.

5. If there is correct voltage for both, then the evaporator fan motor has to be replaced.

6. If the voltage is incorrect, then the main control board has to be replaced.

7. If the voltage is incorrect, check the resistance between the white to the red wire and the white to the yellow wire. If it’s less than 1K ohm, the evaporator fan motor is shorted and has to be replaced.

Best regards.
Gene.



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GBEARSS  
#208 Posted : Monday, July 22, 2013 11:37:06 AM(UTC)
GBEARSS

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Originally Posted by: GBEARSS Go to Quoted Post
Hi, Bought house with GE fridge Model; GSS20IETAWW that warms up second time in 3 wks. Bought new cond. fan motor last time ,havn't installed yet. New fridge 2K,not likely.What should I be looking for to test. Your experience base seems quit broad.thanks in advance. Glenn.

Follwed test till it said contact a pro. Found a bad heater bulb,installed double heater bulb.He said pump unit working ok cause center door post warm. Will feel more confedent if I have trouble in the future. Thanks again. Glenn Bearss.:) :) :) :)
richappy  
#209 Posted : Sunday, August 10, 2014 12:15:57 PM(UTC)
richappy

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Posts: 9,586

If the evaporator motor fails it usually burns out the driver on the motherboard unless the motherboard is the new style with relays isolating the drivers from high current due to failing motors.
Very rarely will any motherboard damage an evaporator motor, the drivers are limited to the 12 volt supply level. If the internal dc supply should put out much higher voltage, internal electronics would probably fail before the motors. If not, all the motors would probably fail, not just the evaporator motor.
So, it is suggested to replace just the failed evaporator motor, unless you can see a burnt resistor on the board, or you have other motors that failed. This is even more justified if the motherboard is the new style with the extra 3 relays.
Susan24  
#210 Posted : Wednesday, August 20, 2014 6:30:49 AM(UTC)
Susan24

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I have a GE Profile model PSS27NGNABB. The refrigerator part is cool but the freezer is not cold. It normally makes ice fast but the ice bend has hardly any ice. How can I tell if the compressor is going on this refrigerator and would it be worth fixing, if it is the compressor? It sounds like a something bottomed out (clunk noise not whinning) it's kinda like the compressor is trying to work-would this be the problem?
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