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I have a Whirlpool Side By Side Fridge with in door water and ice dispenser
Model Number GD5SHAXLQ02
About a week ago it just stopped making ice.
The water dispenser works fine - and if i place ice in the bucket - the ice dispenser works fine also.
I have the ice maker service manual - and have followed testing the sensor codes and they are working fine (the 2 blinks seperated by a 1second pause)
i did attempt jumping the ice making unit to cause a harvest (per the service manual) - but nothing seemed to happen - (im not positive i jumped it properly since im just putting a wire in the two holes it mentions in the manual)
I felt the nozzle that puts water into the tray and it is not frozen - it appears to be the ice making unit itself - but how can i be positive - its the entire unit and not just the wiring harness or something?
any help is greatly appreciated
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Quote:...I have the ice maker service manual - and have followed testing the sensor codes and they are working fine (the 2 blinks seperated by a 1second pause)... I believe the blinking LED means the optics are faulty. The ice maker dead with the jumper wire probably shows the same thing because power to the ice maker comes through the optic board. - The kit of PC boards Part number: AP3137510
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Thanks for Replying Gene but according to the service manual when open it should be blinking twice followed by a 1 second pause
"1. Open the freezer door. 2. View the status LED. It should flash twice, pause for 1 second, and repeat the cycle for as long as the door is open." I also checked that while holding in the Door switch (to emulate "closed door") that the optics light was steady on - which again according to the manual is correct.
"5. Make sure that the door switch is not pushed in, and view the status LED. With the flapper door on the emitter module held closed, and the ice maker not in the 5 minute “harvest” mode, the status LED should be on steady. This indicates that the optics circuits are operating properly." Thus im not thinking its the optics board.
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My recommendations are based on whatever you posted. Quote:... have followed testing the sensor codes and they are working fine (the 2 blinks seperated by a 1second pause)... You did not mention the position of the flopper door. Later you posted: Quote:...I also checked that while holding in the Door switch (to emulate "closed door") that the optics light was steady on - which again according to the manual is correct... and later in the same reply: Quote:... Make sure that the door switch is not pushed in... I need you to very accurately run all the tests described in the manual and post the results. Gene.
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Is this ice maker manual on line somewhere? I am trying to work through ice maker problems on our 3 year old Whirlpool side by side with the infrared sensor and could sure use the procedure.
So far I've replaced an open water inlet valve coil and verified it works and water gets through the ice maker fill hose, and am swapping parts with an older Whirlpool ice maker which runs through a cycle if I connect 120V to the black and white leads and jump the H - T ports to get it started, but it does not run when I plug it into the fridge.
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BTW, the little red light on the infrared receiver does work like the instructions listed in the previous posts IE: 2 blinks separated by a 1 second pause and repeated with flapper open and steady glow with the flapper closed. I guess that may not insure that full voltage is reaching the ice maker, though.
I had posted the following on an older ice maker thread today, so please ignore that and continue on this newer thread:
2005 or 2006 Whirlpool GD5RHAXNB00 - Ice maker stopped working
The ice maker stopped working after a week long power outage in January of this year and the first thing I found when I finally got around to diagnosing it was an open coil on the ice maker water inlet valve which I replaced and tested with an external 120 V source and when energized water flowed from the ice maker tube, but still no normal operation. The light on the infrared receiver is on solid with the slider in ON position and it flashes with the slider in the OFF position.
I removed the ice makers motor head cover and measured 107 volts at the N and L test ports (and on the black and white Ice maker plug leads), but when I inserted a jumper in the H and T ports with the ice maker connected, the motor did not run and the N-L voltage went to zero.
I removed the motor head and applied 120V from an external source to the motor leads and it ran through a full rotation. I WD40d the motor head plug and internal pin contacts and reassembled, but it still does not turn with a H to T jumper.
When I removed the motor head cover the first time, a little piece of white plastic 1/8"wide, 1/16"thick, and 3/8"long with one rounded end and one angled/broken end fell out, but I can't see a mating surface on any of the white plastic arms inside. (I've since discovered this piece was one half of the split shaft that the outer gear fits on, but the gear is still on OK)
I pulled the ice maker out of our old whirlpool and have its motor plate mounted on the newer one's ice maker and with 120V to the black and white leads it will start with the H to T jumper, run through a complete cycle (running without the jumper after the first click is heard), and stop with the ejection fingers up at a 45 degree angle. However, it will not start with the jumper when plugged into the refrigerator's connector, and the N to L voltage drops to zero when the jumper is attached.
Is it likely that the valve coil, the motor plate (not the motor itself) and the sensor would all go bad at the same time?
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I have a pdf copy of the service manual for my Whirlpool icemaker i cannot attach it for whatever reason - i get an invalid page error message or something. Id be happy to get it to you but im not sure how.
im going to be checking my ice maker tonight to see if im getting power to the module.
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Thanks Deadpool, If the pdf is on your hard drive try attaching it to an email to philwarner@centurytel.net. I am still a bit in the dark about how the ice maker works, but the good news is that after swapping the older motor module onto the newer ice maker and leaving it plugged to the connector and on the top freezer shelf or awhile, it finally went through a cycle (unfortunately missing the cup I'd set under the water tube and showering the freezer) and after I put it back in place last night it has been making ice as it should. What a nice sound to finally hear the ice falling into the dispenser, and we can put away the trays we'd been filling and dumping in the bin. Apparently there is a thermostat somewhere that breaks the circuit to the motor until it is cold enough to freeze water; it may be a pretty high threshold because when it first cycled and filled the ice mold, the temp inside was 28 degrees according to my non-contact thermometer. Good luck with your own projest and remember to check the voltage at the test ports while the ice maker is still cold. I can see these checks were a lot easier when the ice maker was installed front-to-back like in our old Whirlpool side by side (the donor of the motor module) and not side to side like the newer one where you have to take it out to get to the test points. "Deadpool328 wrote: Today, 06:31 AM deadpool328 vbmenu_register("postmenu_116810", true); Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 4 I have a pdf copy of the service manual for my Whirlpool icemaker i cannot attach it for whatever reason - i get an invalid page error message or something. Id be happy to get it to you but im not sure how. im going to be checking my ice maker tonight to see if im getting power to the module.
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Deadpool,
I forgot to ask if you've tested the coil on the ice maker water valve; mine was open and I took one off the old Whirlpool to replace it. You can take the valve assembly loose at the rear lower left side of the fridge (lower right looking at the back), unplug the coil (the white plug on mine) and use a spare cord to run 120V across the coil and see if water flows to the ice maker tube. Alternately you can check the resistance of the coil; if I remember my good ones were between 3 to 5 ohms and the bad one had no continuity.
Unfortunately the parts suppliers only sell the assembly, but if there are any used appliance salvage places around, these appear to be pretty universal and may even be the same as used on washers and dishwashers, Also I saw a new single water valve on ******** with a coil that looked exactly like my bad one for about $18 with free shipping; that's a little easier to swallow than $125 plus tax or shipping for the assembly.
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