Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/4/2012(UTC) Posts: 1
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I am trying to diagnose the root cause of my GE ice maker and need some direction. Water is simply not filling the ice mold and I can not determine whether the problem is within the ice maker circuitry or within the ice maker inlet valve. The inside of the ice maker appears to be well documented with a molded plastic schematic diagram of the ice maker's electrical parts. The T.C.O has that classic fuse symbol and is the first suspect of electronic parts to go bad. I also notice that the Water Valve wire(white) is fed by line voltage through a relay. Is there a way that I could get control of this relay so that I could force a water valve actuation? Or should I just plan to replace the ice maker assembly in its entirety? The circuit board appears to be in pristine condition with no evidence of burned or discolored parts.:confused:
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 0
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Hello Tim. The thermal cut out can indeed fail, but I've seen one bad t.c.o. in 20+ years of appliance repair. Do you have voltage to the harness coming in to the ice maker? If there is voltage there we can force a cycle with a jumper wire from the "T" terminal to the "H" terminal. The jumper has to be a insulated wire stripped at each end. You are jumping 120Vac past the ice maker thermostat so be careful not to get shocked!
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