refrigerator control board test Options  Email this topic  Watch this topic  Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: HSS25IFMDCC	Brand: Hotpoint	Age: 5 - 10 years
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howjack		#1 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 10:24:03 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/21/2012(UTC) Posts: 3		I was instructed to test the voltage between J2-3 and J2-4 on control board AP4436216; where are those contacts located on the board?:o Any advice will be greatly appreciated and ya'll will help me do something I try to do every day: learn something new!:) Thanks!
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ApplianceJunk		#2 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 11:08:11 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC) Posts: 2,277		Are they not labeled on the board?
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howjack		#3 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 11:22:30 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/21/2012(UTC) Posts: 3		Originally Posted by: ApplianceJunk Are they not labeled on the board? there is a connector that has 5 wires coming out of it labeled J2; if you go left to right there is a wire in spots 3 &4, but if you go right to left there is nothing in spot 3. Thanks for your reply. I just checked between wires 3&4 and there is no voltage; I suppose that is why my evaporator fan is not running?
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Gene		#4 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 1:29:22 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)		The best way to diagnose such problem is to follow the instructions from one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros...or-test-replacement.html Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric HSS25IFMDCC Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com Gene.
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howjack		#5 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 2:59:22 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/21/2012(UTC) Posts: 3		Thanks Gene, glad you experts are out there to help us poor folks:)
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applianceman		#6 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 5:35:47 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,648		You may have already found what you were looking for on the link Gene left for you but I just posted pictures on this page that may help (scroll down to the evaporator fan section). GE Refrigerator Fan Motor Diagnostics Note that if your main board is bad the evaporator fan could have caused the board to fail.
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richappy		#7 Posted : Thursday, February 23, 2012 4:04:49 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		For applianceman. I took a motor apart and it is a 6 pole induction motor. It must have a square wave to run. That was noted in the original Jersey shore diagnostics. This means J2 pin 3 and 4 should allways have less than 12 volts indicating a square wave with variable duty cycle. Is this true, or all the evaporator motors now permanent magnet dc motors?
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applianceman		#8 Posted : Thursday, February 23, 2012 10:18:07 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,648		All my service manuals are at my house so this is just what I know off the top of my head. All the voltage readings I refer to are at the main board not the motor itself. These motors must have to have two voltage readings. There is always 12-14 volts DC between pin 3 and 8 even when the motor isn’t running. (It will run off of 9V but if you see 9V there is something wrong with the board). When the motor is running (or should be) you will see 4-12 volts DC between pins 3 and 4 (for the evaporator fan) depending on the speed the motor is running. All the motors on the refrigerator share the 12-14 volts off the #8 pin. They actually use what they call a pulsed width modulated voltage between pins 3 and 4 to control fan speed. (I think this is what you are calling a square wave). What this means to me is they pulse 12V at varying frequency to slow and speed up the motor. This isn’t really important because when they pulse the voltage to make the motor run on slow speed your meter sees 4V because basically it is pulsing slow enough for the average voltage to be 4V. However at high speed you see 12 Volts or so and this is still pulsed but the frequency is such that we see the full 12 Volts when we check it with a meter. This is how it was explained at the service meetings I have been to and this is how it is written in the service manual. I don’t know if this actually answers your question but it is all I know. I have never taken one apart. If I see something else in the service manual I will post again tonight.
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richappy		#9 Posted : Thursday, February 23, 2012 11:10:09 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		Thanks for the info. I helps to know what is going on. Apparently they are using a controlled power stall to slow the motor the same way a motor speed control works.
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Guest		#10 Posted : Sunday, February 13, 2022 5:17:43 PM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Registered Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)		Due to electric outrage on our community this month January my refrigerator quit, the only thing is on is the lights and I hear a bussing sound on the front control board, any ideas or suggestions appreciated,
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