:mad: My washer leaks on the floor a little after each load but seems to get worse lately. I have replaced the pump but apparently that didn't correct the issue. Last weekend I lifted the washer up on two cylinder rocks so I could get under it with a flashlight and let it run a cycle with no clothes, let it fill with "small load" level selected, not a drop leaked. This weekend I used it with a load, water on the floor. Seems to be getting progressively worse and I don't knwo what else to do! So, I took it out to my shop and disassembled it, determined to find the leak. The cabinet is off, inner tub out. I have checked all the hoses and the outer tub seems to be in great shape. I can't seem to find anything wrong with it! Anyone have any ideas, will be so greatly appreciated, I really can't afford to buy a new one, besides this one is only 6 years old, seems like it should last a little longer, I bought it new. Thanks in advance!

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Replacement parts for Roper RAS8333PQ0 AUTOMATIC WASHER | AppliancePartsPros.com

Could be that it is overfilling.
This would be due to a bad water level switch or a leak in the pressure hose or a water valve that is closing too slow.
I would check the pressure hose first as you said it is getting worse.

If you click on a parts picture a new page will open with more views, info, a Q&A section and sometimes a video .

If you click on the coupler Item 13 in section 3 it shows how to open the unit up.

So I would run a load using cold/cold, then if it leaks open the unit up and try to find the leak point.
The reason I suggest cold/cold is that you do not want the leak water to evaporate off due to the heat.

Below is my usual blurb on the water level switch just in case it is overfilling.
This switch is actually a pressure switch. It has a tube that runs down to the bottom of the tub, as water fills the tub, air is trapped in the tube. As the water rises, the air pressure in the tube increases until it reaches the switch's set point then the switch activates turning off the water and starting the agitate.

Possible problems.
1. Gunk blocking water from entering the tube. Remove the tube at the switch and blow into it to clear the plug.
2. Cracks or holes in the tube allowing the air to escape. Inspect the tube. Also check that it is tight on the switch, if not, cut off half an inch and re-seat it.
3. The switch is toast. Get a piece of tubing with the same internal diameter and attach this to the switch. Start a fill, then blow into the tube. You should be able to stop the water flow without blowing very hard.
If you cannot stop it the switch is toast.

Note: That you may be able to stop it by blowing into then tubing and it may still be no good as it needs too much pressure to activate the switch.
So iof the tubing is OK replace the switch.

Note: I am assuming that you can stop the water flow by unplugging or turning off the unit.
If the only way to stop it is to shut off the taps your water valve is shot.