Last year I had a similar issue, but that turned out to be a defrost issue and was resolved with the new dual heaters and a new temp sensor on the coil.

Now I noticed the fridge is rising to almost 60 degrees F and the freezer maintains -3 degrees F no problem. I pulled the cover in the freezer just to make sure it was not freezing up and the coil was fine with little to no frost.

I find that I can unplug the fridge and plug it back in and the damper will open, fan kicks on and the fridge cools back down as it should. However, the issue returns the same day and the temp in the fridge rises again. Changing the temp setting usually makes no difference, but setting the temp to zero and then returning it to a default setting of 5 sometimes starts it back up without having to unplug the fridge.

Also, over the past few months the digital reading of the temp settings in the fridge are sometimes not lit when the door is opened (but the light bulbs do go on and off).

At this point I do not think it is the temp sensor in the fridge, but the motherboard on the way out and want to know if I am on the right track before I spend $130.

I am with you on the motherboard but there are a couple of things you should check first. With both the doors closed look to see if the fresh food door is lower than the freezer. If so open the freezer door and crack the fresh food door just but don’t open it enough for the light to come on. Now pull downward on the door and see if the light comes on. If so adjusting the door up may solve your problem. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to adjust the door (if need be) regardless of the outcome of this test just to be sure this isn’t the problem.


If that doesn’t seem to be the problem I would check the thermistor in the fresh food section next to the damper. I almost never see this thermistor bad because it isn’t exposed to as much moisture as the freezer thermisors but I would still check it before I put a motherboard on, just to be sure.



I actually think it is the motherboard mostly because of the issue you describe about the digital readings not lighting up. This is an indication that the board is loosing the low voltage at times, which is caused by a bad capacitor on the board. But the boards are so expensive you are better off trying to eliminate other possibilities first.

GE Refrigerator Repair Guide

Well said applianceman, I missed that one...forgot about the door sagging issue...Usually the customer will say the fridge is hot, not room temp, that is why I assumed the board and not the sagging door issue....

I work for an independent GE dealer.

Ok, a little over a year later. I now keep a small crescent wrench on top of the frig and I have to adjust the frig door every week or two as it's moving on down all the time. I tried cleaning up the threads and using locktite and that did very little to help.

This is silly, is there a solution to this besides me getting so aggravated I go to the length of buying a new frig?