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qzymfl  
#1 Posted : Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:10:26 PM(UTC)
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qzymfl

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I open the dryer door the light comes on but after i rotate the swich to start a cycle,nothing happens. The door switch at least tell me that I have power to the outlet.
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applianceman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, July 19, 2009 4:18:18 PM(UTC)
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applianceman

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The hi-limit switch (# 505 on the parts breakdown) is most likely bad. With the dryer unplugged you can check for continuity across the switch to see if it is bad or not. If it is bad make sure the vent isn’t clogged because that will cause that part to go bad.

If that is not the problem I would check the door switch next. Same thing with the door closed you should have continuity across the switch. GE Dryer Not Running Repair Guide
qzymfl  
#3 Posted : Monday, July 20, 2009 5:45:30 PM(UTC)
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qzymfl

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I checked the continuity of hi-limit switch (# 505 on the parts breakdown)and two other switches in the area they all had continuity. I check for continuity across the door switch. It also had continuity. All switches were tested with the door closed and the power disconnected.

When power is connected I just get the light when the door is open. nothing else. no other sound.
applianceman  
#4 Posted : Monday, July 20, 2009 6:46:14 PM(UTC)
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applianceman

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Just to be sure when you checked for continuity did you disconnect the wires from the switches to isolate them. Otherwise you may get a false continuity reading.

The start switch gives very little trouble but I have seen them bad some. Disconnect the wires from the switch and check for continuity with the switch rotated.

Also make sure you have 240V coming to the plug if you have a loose wire the dryer may not run but the light may get power from the other wires.
qzymfl  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, July 21, 2009 9:43:53 AM(UTC)
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qzymfl

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You stated to check continity on the start switch with the switch rotated. Is the rotated switch that you are refering to the timer?



Just to be sure when you checked for continuity did you disconnect the wires from the switches to isolate them. Otherwise you may get a false continuity reading.

The start switch gives very little trouble but I have seen them bad some. Disconnect the wires from the switch and check for continuity with the switch rotated.

Also make sure you have 240V coming to the plug if you have a loose wire the dryer may not run but the light may get power from the other wires.
applianceman  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, July 21, 2009 10:06:51 AM(UTC)
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applianceman

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I was talking about the start switch itself. It should have continuity between the two wires on the back of the switch when you rotate the start switch know.
qzymfl  
#7 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 3:55:34 PM(UTC)
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qzymfl

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Upon further investigation, the belt was broke. i took machine apart and purchased a new belt. I start to put the belt on when I noted the hole in the idler pulley (#216) looked larger than the outer diameter of the idler arm. I moved the idler arm and pulley into position to apply the tension on the belt . At that point the idler pulley twisted out of position because the hole in the pulley was larger than the outer diameter of the idler arm(#215). Question is the pulleys hole size suppose to be the same size as the idler arm diam, or does the pulley run on a bushing? Also is the nut (#195) that attahes to the idler arm, is it a Palnut or a regular screw in nut?
applianceman  
#8 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 5:21:15 PM(UTC)
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applianceman

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I can’t believe I didn’t think of the belt tension switch sorry I could have saved you some trouble. The pulley should fit tight on the shaft. The nut is a push on nut you will probably destroy the old on getting it off. A new push nut should come with the pulley.
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