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tylee77  
#1 Posted : Saturday, January 28, 2012 4:47:35 PM(UTC)
tylee77

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i need help have maytag neptune fav6800aww.its starts to spin then its stops and keeps trying to start spinning again i just replaced the whole main control board because a repairman said that was the most likely cause of the problem,but it still does the same thing, who can help me out with this darn thing im ready to give up on it!!!!!!!!!
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tylee77  
#2 Posted : Saturday, January 28, 2012 4:50:22 PM(UTC)
tylee77

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i need help have maytag neptune fav6800aww.its starts to spin then its stops and keeps trying to start spinning again i just replaced the whole main control board because a repairman said that was the most likely cause of the problem,but it still does the same thing, who can help me out with this darn thing im ready to give up on it!!!!!!!!!
dwc01  
#3 Posted : Saturday, January 28, 2012 7:48:50 PM(UTC)
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You might have a bad Motor Control Board.
dh1200s  
#4 Posted : Sunday, January 29, 2012 8:18:32 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: tylee77 Go to Quoted Post
i need help have maytag neptune fav6800aww.its starts to spin then its stops and keeps trying to start spinning again i just replaced the whole main control board because a repairman said that was the most likely cause of the problem,but it still does the same thing, who can help me out with this darn thing im ready to give up on it!!!!!!!!!



Sorry for the late reply. I feel your Series machine uses the Upper One Bearing ring and that bearing is seized.

Classic failure with wash water contamination of the Upper One-Way bearing ring and Clutch Pulley assembly. Don't throw anymore parts at the machine until proper troubleshooting.

If you want to proceed I will try to help. Quick 1st troubleshooting step......with the washer off open the washer lid and see if you can rotate the wash basket in the CCW direction that is the Spin direction...... what are the results?

I'm an owner with some hands on an will try to help.

Dick
tylee77  
#5 Posted : Sunday, January 29, 2012 9:52:28 PM(UTC)
tylee77

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Sorry for the late reply. I feel your Series machine uses the Upper One Bearing ring and that bearing is seized.

Classic failure with wash water contamination of the Upper One-Way bearing ring and Clutch Pulley assembly. Don't throw anymore parts at the machine until proper troubleshooting.

If you want to proceed I will try to help. Quick 1st troubleshooting step......with the washer off open the washer lid and see if you can rotate the wash basket in the CCW direction that is the Spin direction...... what are the results?

I'm an owner with some hands on an will try to help.

Dick



this machine starts to spin and i can feel and hear the tub spinning but aftr about 10 seconds it just slows then stops then tyrs to restart again
dh1200s  
#6 Posted : Monday, January 30, 2012 5:00:06 AM(UTC)
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""this machine starts to spin and i can feel and hear the tub spinning but aftr about 10 seconds it just slows then stops then tyrs to restart again""

How are you determining the wash basket begins to spin up? Did you release the washer top from the washer base and observer the wash basket spinning CCW the spin direction of the wash basket?

Or are you just observing the Motor RPM indication in Service Mode with site and sound indications with the washer lid closed?

Put the machine in a Spin Only cycle......does it complete?

The repair person went in the wrong direction with the Control Board replacement correct?

I feel strongly the Motor Control board is not the issue but that’s my WAG without being on site to properly troubleshoot the issue. I hope you can return the Console Control Board and get your money back for a failed diagnosis of the issue. If you replace the Motor Control board make sure it can be returned also....... I feel you will be returning it if purchased. As I said at the start...........Don't throw anymore parts at the machine until proper troubleshooting.

That's my process troubleshooting before replacing parts. As you drill down closer to the fail point through proper troubleshooting you will have better success of a fix before reaching into your back pocket $$$. I can't guarantee you success that's a function of the person I'm trying to help.

I'm a technical owner working in a different discipline but I have a lot of hands on with my Series 10, 16, and 17 FAV6800A's. As in my discipline (electronics tech in the cable industry) I troubleshoot first then parts replacement.

Go up to the search box in this forum and type in dh1200s………. that's my forum on line resume related to the FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines. I may not have all the answers but I will get you closer to a fix compared to the repair service you called in.

I’ll try to help but you will need to drop the Clutch Pulley out of the machine and let me know what you find……….I bet a rusted mess.

See this post on how to remove/drop out the Clutch Pulley assembly for your machine; Maytag Neptune load unbalance (UserPostedImage 1 2 3 ... Last Page)

In that post I discuss how to remove the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Clutch Pulley assembly related to proper troubleshooting of chronic unbalance DC/UC errors. Won’t cost you a dime just your time.

Take a look at some of the Clutch Pully pics in this post


I feel that you will find similar issues with your Clutch Pulley do to failed Tub Seal/Tranny O-Ring issues causing wash water contamination of the Clutch Pulley, Spinner Support bearings and Outer Tub bearings.

Good Luck………….Dick
tylee77  
#7 Posted : Monday, January 30, 2012 10:59:56 PM(UTC)
tylee77

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Originally Posted by: dh1200s Go to Quoted Post
""this machine starts to spin and i can feel and hear the tub spinning but aftr about 10 seconds it just slows then stops then tyrs to restart again""

How are you determining the wash basket begins to spin up? Did you release the washer top from the washer base and observer the wash basket spinning CCW the spin direction of the wash basket?

Or are you just observing the Motor RPM indication in Service Mode with site and sound indications with the washer lid closed?

Put the machine in a Spin Only cycle......does it complete?

The repair person went in the wrong direction with the Control Board replacement correct?

I feel strongly the Motor Control board is not the issue but that’s my WAG without being on site to properly troubleshoot the issue. I hope you can return the Console Control Board and get your money back for a failed diagnosis of the issue. If you replace the Motor Control board make sure it can be returned also....... I feel you will be returning it if purchased. As I said at the start...........Don't throw anymore parts at the machine until proper troubleshooting.

That's my process troubleshooting before replacing parts. As you drill down closer to the fail point through proper troubleshooting you will have better success of a fix before reaching into your back pocket $$$. I can't guarantee you success that's a function of the person I'm trying to help.

I'm a technical owner working in a different discipline but I have a lot of hands on with my Series 10, 16, and 17 FAV6800A's. As in my discipline (electronics tech in the cable industry) I troubleshoot first then parts replacement.

Go up to the search box in this forum and type in dh1200s………. that's my forum on line resume related to the FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines. I may not have all the answers but I will get you closer to a fix compared to the repair service you called in.

I’ll try to help but you will need to drop the Clutch Pulley out of the machine and let me know what you find……….I bet a rusted mess.

See this post on how to remove/drop out the Clutch Pulley assembly for your machine; Maytag Neptune load unbalance (UserPostedImage 1 2 3 ... Last Page)

In that post I discuss how to remove the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Clutch Pulley assembly related to proper troubleshooting of chronic unbalance DC/UC errors. Won’t cost you a dime just your time.

Take a look at some of the Clutch Pully pics in this post


I feel that you will find similar issues with your Clutch Pulley do to failed Tub Seal/Tranny O-Ring issues causing wash water contamination of the Clutch Pulley, Spinner Support bearings and Outer Tub bearings.

Good Luck………….Dick



thanks dick im stuck with the control board for now, as i hav been online its starting to seem as though this machine has had a lot a problems and possible recalls,in your opinion i this thing even worth the time and money or should i just get a new washer!!!!!!!!
dh1200s  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, January 31, 2012 6:27:42 AM(UTC)
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I feel your failure is wash water seizing up the One-Way bearing that prevents the Spinner Support/Wash basket from rotating during the wash/agitate cycle. That One-Way bearing should allow the Spinner Support/Wash basket to spin freely in the CCW/Spin direction of Clutch Pulley rotation.

The washer moves thru the wash cycle and when it hits the spin cycle it stalls because of the seized One-Way bearing preventing the Spinner Support/Wash basket from spinning up. The Control Board has no sensing for this failure so no error code is sent to the Console alerting the owner of a problem. Again I have not experienced this failure. My analysis is based on helping other owners with this failure scenario

Depending on the Outer Tub design of your machine there could be an Outer Tub rebuild issue. See this post; http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/189762-where-bearings-3.html last page of post

It comes down to an owner call;
1. Will the Outer Tub design accept a new Upper One-Way bearing ring?

2. How much down time can I deal with?

3. Can I do this repair after reading other owner rebuild comments?

I feel all other failures can be dealt with by a DIY owner with basic skill sets and some coaching if required.

If the first two digits of your FAV6800A or FAV9800A machine starts with 10 or 11 then I feel you have a machine build with the Old Style outer tub which can easily be rebuilt (Outer Tub rebuild) for around $200 including the clutch pulley replacement with some shopping around for parts. See this post of the details of an Outer Tub rebuild; FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement 1 2 3 ... Last Page


With that type of rebuild I feel you will get another 5 to 6 years of service out of those components. Of course other failures may occur like loss of a Console Control Board, Motor Control Board from something like A.C. line voltage transient/impulse hits i.e. lightning hits….use surge protection at outlets serving high value appliances if you are in the country like me. Corrosions issues associated with the left hand lid lock, pressure switch, drain pump failure and so on. I feel all fixable at low cost compared to a machine purchase. The Tranny, Motor and Motor Controller seem to be built/designed well matched to this machine.

I feel gone or the days of machine running 10 to 15 years without a break down…….but I would let the appliance techs speak to what they see as a machine that will run 10+ yrs with minimal service calls/cost.

If you decide to try a repair I will try to help……Dick
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