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dbergquist  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, January 24, 2012 5:34:20 PM(UTC)
dbergquist

Rank: Member

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Joined: 12/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5

My Whirlpool Cabrio is getting an F50 fault code when it attempts to spin. When I activate the auto diagnostic mode, F50 and F51 are indicated in the saved fault codes. The auto diagnostic fails at step C0 with an F50 fault code.

When I activate the manual motor test, the Wash, Rinse, and Spin indicators toggle as expected when I turn the basket. The manual spin test results again in an F50 fault code.

The basket spun freely, but went ahead and removed the basket from the tub and found a sock between them. Unfortunately, after removing the sock, I repeated the diagnostic tests above with the same results.

I then performed each of the steps in TEST #3. The P5 and P10 connectors passed continuity tests and were inserted correctly at both ends. The resistance between pins P10-1 and P10-7 was within the expected range, but the resistance between P5-1 and P5-2 and between P5-1 and P5-3 was 31.2 ohms rather than the 16 ohms indicated in the TEST #3 documentation.

I was going to replace the drive motor (stator) part number AP5306946, but in the Q&A on the part page a tech responding to one of the questions said the 31 ohms is the correct resistance for this part.

If the stator resistance is 31 ohm rather than 16, then my washer has passed every check in TEST #3. Can anyone confirm what the stator resistance should be? Is there anything else I should check? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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tonystrachan  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, January 25, 2012 3:01:05 AM(UTC)
tonystrachan

Rank: Member

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Joined: 1/22/2012(UTC)
Posts: 4

l have the exact same washer with this exact problem. According to the documentation, the stator should be 31 ohms. What I don,t understand is why it is supposed to read 16 ohms at P5 (per test 3) and 31 ohms at the stator (per the repair manual). My machine reads 31 ohms at P5 and at the stator (makes sense with only wire between these two points). My understanding is the motor control board is the likely culprit at this point.
dbergquist  
#3 Posted : Friday, January 27, 2012 5:36:51 PM(UTC)
dbergquist

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5

I purchased the control board (part number AP4360738) and the kit that contains the RPS board (part number AP4327312). I replaced the control board and re-ran the auto diagnostic test and it ran successfully this time. I didn't need the RPS board kit, but I'm going to keep it anyway because I figure I'll need it eventually.

I also took the opportunity to refurbish the cabinet top. I was surprised how rusted the underside of the cabinet top was. From the outside the washer looks almost new, but after 4 years of service there was a lot of rust on the underside so I wire-brushed and painted with white rustoleum primer. I also cleaned all the dispensers.

I just wanted to express my thanks to those who have contributed to this site. I couldn't have fixed this without your help.
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