The problems you described are classic ducting caused issues. Here's what gives it away. With a ducting issue the first thing that is noticed is that the timer won't advance in the automatic cycles....but advances on the timed dry cycle. The next thing that happens is that the heating circuit fails. Here's why. The air flow which should be carrying away the heat, lint, and moisture, cannot escape the dryer. You see, the dryer drum is riding on felt seals which are not designed to hold much pressure. So when you have a restriction of the exhaust duct, the heat ,lint and moisture blows past the felt drum seals back into the cabinet where the thermostats, thermal cutout, motor, drum rollers....everything you don't want heat, lint, and moisture on...gets heat, lint, and moisture on them. The automatic cycles use moisture sensors that, when they sense less moisture, supply the voltage to the timer motor to advance the timer. Since the moisture is reintroduced into the cabinet, the sensors see the moisture and prevents the timer from advancing. Now the heat is recirculated into the cabinet also. Since the thermal cutout is opened by temperature, the thermal cutout opens and opens the circuit that provides voltage to the heating element. Sometimes the heating element will open also. So it's a safe bet that you'll probably have to address the following issues. The exhaust duct should be addressed first and foremost, as if the repair is completed and the dryer is put back into operation on the restricted exhaust, the same parts will fail again. The duct should be run with 4 inch solid aluminum ducting. No flex duct is recommended by any of the manufacturers. Next, disconnect the dryer from the power supply and remove the back of the unit. Remove one of the red wires from any of the terminals on the heater housing to prevent reading resistance back through the rest of the circuit. Test the top fuse, and the heating element. The heating element terminals are the 2 at the bottom of the housing that the thermostat and thermal fuse are mounted on the side of. Replace any component that reads NO continuity. If the thermal fuse is open, (the one at the top), the thermostat mounted at the bottom MUST be replaced also as it should have opened first, keeping the top one from failing. (That's why they come in a kit with both of them). Reinstall the main back of the unit, reconnect to the duct and power supply and catch up on your laundry. That's it! You have just completed your dryer repair! Might not be the easiest thing you've ever done, but you are now the hero! Good luck and watch those edges! I recommend wearing gloves so you don't spend the money you just saved on stitches! =]