My Frigidaire Gallery Front Loader has challenged me! Yesterday (Jan 9, 2012) I noticed that no matter what mode or position the selection was in, it would not go into a full spin cycle. I had a load of drenched clothes (now all in a utility sink until I can get this resolved).
So this is what I did. I set it to the following:
Drain/spin
High Spin
Cycle Signal
It starts of at 13 minutes and acted as if it is draining excess water from the basin. Then at 9 and 8 minutes in will cycle the drum back and forth a few times. Then when it was at the middle of 7 minutes it shuts off. All lights go out and the door unlocks!

I ran the diagnostics from the book hung on the back of the machine and all steps seemed to complete (such as the machine did cycle all steps, locking and unlocking, spinning at a high spin cycle, and leakage test and drained out completely). At the end of the test the display panel gave an error code E47, then 3 long signal beeps. I referred to the book and it said to go to test #9. That states to remove the door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the PTC (NOW I AM LOST). I can only assume that this would be part of the control board. I really need some guidance here.

If I knew what or how to find the control board and knew what leads to test the ohms, then I might be able to avoid purchasing the wrong parts, but if the door locked and unlocked... could it still be the door lock assembly?

Then there is that 7 minute complete shut down. I would think this could be some sort of indicator to one of you great techs. I have a wife who is looking at the stack of clothes and looking at me for the fix. I thought maybe, just maybe I could pull this one off. I did make certain the drain hose is clear (there was a small blockage, but cleared out easily with a mighty puff!

Does anyone have an idea on what I might possibly could do to save $$ from a service call. I already downloaded the document to remove the door switch assembly, but how do I know if that is the problem?

Also, as I mention above, as I look at the door assembly as possibly being the source of the problem, what leads do I test for the resistance ( I see 8 different connectors) and what levels should be a red flag to replace?

Thank you in advance for any assistance anyone can provide.

Wow everyone. Great help!! I pulled the assembly unit out, tested with my meter and nothing. I made sure my meter was zeroed and tripled tested the connector. Still nothing. I've got the part on order and hope to get this back in the production by early next week.... You saved us a lot $$...
Many Thanks...

Just had the same problem with my Kenmore front loader. Washer would drain for several minutes but then time out and shutdown. No high speed spin. Followed the diagnostics and stepped through each stage. Confirmed the high-speed spin stage works but would time out and stop with error code E47.
Removed the door lock asembly and measured the resistance of the "wax motor" PTC at 1300 Ohms. According to the troubleshooting guide "test 9": since this is neither OPEN or SHORTED and close enough to the spec'd 1500 Ohms, I should have replaced the Control Board.
Instead I decided to check this "wax motor" and its PTC first. With the door lock assembly still wired up and sitting on top, removed the door locking latch (2 screws) and pushed it into the door assembly to simulate a closed door. Put the multimeter on AC and stuck the leads into the wax motor contacts. Cycled through the troubleshooting steps and at the high-speed stage, there was 115Vac applied to the wax motor. It did heat up. But it timed out again.
Disassembled the door latch and noted the "aux lock door switch" connected to the orange lead. Ran my test again and noted that this switch never closed which is what causes the time-out since there is no feedback confirming the latch has been secured for the high-speed spin cycle.
Despite the wax motor PTC measuring ~1500 Ohms, I suspected this as the fault and NOT the control board. Removed the wax motor from the door lock assembly and hooked it up on the bench directly to 115Vac. Sure enough it heated up but the shaft hardly extended at all. I opened the wax motor and revealed the actual wax-filled PTC device pushing against a very strong return spring. I removed the spring and attached 115Vac again. Within a minute the shaft pushed out. There was also signs of wax on the outside indicating that over the years, wax has squeezed out of the gland around the shaft and this weaked the wax motor's ability to push against the return spring.
Bought new door lock assy.