The spark module should not spark without power going to it. Its power is switched by the ignition switches on the burner valves. One (or more) of those switches may be shorted powering the module continually.

LINK > Burner Ignition Switches and Harness Asm.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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I can't say what will stop clicking in every case, I can only say what worked for me. This note applies to those cooktops where the sparking is supposed to continue until a burner ignites. It does not apply to those where the sparking is only suppose to occur when the gas value is in the "ignite" position.

1. If clicking does not stop when the gas is turned off, then contact is being maintained by one of the switches attached to each of the gas valves. The reason could be as simple as the switch being wet (use hair dryer to dry out) or a defective switch (replace). Possibly use an "Ohm Meter" to find the contact that is not opening when the gas is shut off.

2. If the clicking stops when the gas is turned off, but the sparking continues after one or more of the burners have ignited, there are at least two possible causes. (a) The gap between the spark electrode and the cover plate is not being filled with hot ionized gas. Most often this is because the top cover is not correctly positioned on the burner. It may also result from a pot on the burner defecting the flame away from the ignitor; if so, reposition the pot. (b) Their is a mismatch between the conduction through the ionized gas and the conduction needed to preclude further sparking. This may be a result of a dirty or dull electrode, or a defective ignitor controller. In one stove that I owned, the manufacturer installed (as warranty repair) three "new" ignitor controllers before we discovered that it was a mismatch problem. When an older version of the controller was installed to mate with the older version ignitors, the sparking stopped on ignition.

I'll add that as an apartment manager, I've had to deal with four cook-tops with these problems. Many of the internal parts are the same even though the cook tops may bear the names of different manufacturers.

Without more detailed information, it is difficult to say with certainty the cause of your problem. However, I expect switches on each of the four control knobs are wired as a logical OR function, and that the closing of any one of the four switches will activate the ignitor circuit. Before one can ascertain whether or not the ignitor module is defective, you need to determine why it continues to run when all four switches are turned OFF. I'd suggest disconnecting the switches until you find the switch that is sending power to the ignitor module. Once that problem is solved, then you may be able to determine if you have a ignitor or wiring harness problem. Ignore the following ..e four control knobs eelectric

You can also unplug the wiring harness to the switches at the spark module and power source, both wires, as process of elimination.

I recently experienced this same problem. If you got it wet, let it dry and be patient. Mine fixed itself after about 30 hours drying time.

Here's my story: I cleaned the cooktop and assume I got something wet that I should not have. Suddenly, all 5 burners started continuously igniting. They would all light, but clicking continued even when lit. Finally I unplugged it. I removed all the knob and burner covers and waited overnight. In the morning I plugged it in and it was still clicking, but only 3 of the 5. Unplugged again and waited. 12 hours later I plugged it in and all was fine! (Of course in the mean time I thought it was ruined it. It is over 10 years old, afterall. I spent many hours researching replacing switches and harnesses and trying to get a repairman to come out, but it was just before Thanksgiving so I had no luck. Turns out that saved me $$ because it just needed to dry out!) It's been over a week now and it still back to normal.