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mb250c  
#1 Posted : Monday, July 6, 2009 2:04:50 PM(UTC)
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mb250c

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Wash with slow tumble is fine. There is no leaking that I can see.
As the spin cycle picks up speed, I hear a loud rapping, as if something like a belt was slapping against something with each revolution. It can get pretty loud. Also, with the machine empty, if I reach in and try to move the drum, the drum seems to move excessively easil Any, to the point of feeling flimsy. (there's a word that I don't get to use often enough!) Any ideas?
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Monday, July 6, 2009 2:09:21 PM(UTC)
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richappy

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You probably have bad tub bearings and seals and one of you spin basket spider supports is broken. Parts and labor would make a repair more than the washer is worth.
You eventually will find the motor cutting out on it's thermal overload and eventually the speed control board will blow out.
You can verify this with an amprobe if you have one.
ddvw  
#3 Posted : Saturday, July 18, 2009 3:23:26 AM(UTC)
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ddvw

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Originally Posted by: mb250c Go to Quoted Post
Wash with slow tumble is fine. There is no leaking that I can see.
As the spin cycle picks up speed, I hear a loud rapping, as if something like a belt was slapping against something with each revolution. It can get pretty loud. Also, with the machine empty, if I reach in and try to move the drum, the drum seems to move excessively easil Any, to the point of feeling flimsy. (there's a word that I don't get to use often enough!) Any ideas?


I am experiencing the exact same problem with a Frigidaire Model CRTF1240ASO front-loader. I've posted the problem on "doityourself.com" also, but that site does not seem to be as rigorous as this site in working through problems. I'm being told there "sounds like a rear bearing" and "sounds like a broken basket spider. Time for a new washer..."

I have the tools, the experience, and the desire to fix this if someone out there has the technical details or advice. I might spend over $400 of my own time working on it, but I would consider that to be "entertainment!"

I'm a former nuke submariner. While I was Chief Engineer, we once replaced the broken stem of a steam reducing valve with the shaft of a Craftsman screwdriver! Throw me a bone!
richappy  
#4 Posted : Saturday, July 18, 2009 5:17:21 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Go to web site www.applianceaid.com for info on this. You can pound out the old bearings with a piece of steel pipe. I would just pound out the inner bearing, then the outer bearing with a wood dowel to protect the bearing as this one may be ok.
You can go to a web bearing site to match up the bearings, or just go to an auto parts store wher they will mike the bearings. I would opt for sealed bearings with a neoprene seal, they last longer. Also, I think the spider supports are alluminum, might want to clean and paint with rust preventative. You can tap the new bearings in with a piece of wood or the old bearing.
Good luck with this.
mb250c  
#5 Posted : Sunday, July 19, 2009 12:59:25 PM(UTC)
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mb250c

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I have dismantled the unit and low and behold, 2 of the 3 spider brackets are broken. I can't be certain of the bearings, though if I decide to replace the spin basket assy., I will do the bearings also. Being in the $300 neighborhood for parts alone does make it a difficult decision. Thank you for your help, Rich.
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