Inglis Electric Dryer is about 2 years old....it's possible it was a Whirlpool manufacture in those days.

Operated like a trooper for all these years however yesterday my wife did recall hearing an unusual louder noise from it. As one of the laundry items was still a bit damp from that last load I put it back in the dryer however it wouldn't start. There is power to the unit and the breaker is fine.

After googling I tested the door switch and on/off switch with a multimeter and they appear to be fine.

When then the front panel was off I did notice a broken belt on the bottom so that is one item to be replaced.

So the question is...if the belt broke during the end of a cycle that could well make that unusual noise, but would the dryer not start or have some sign of power when I press the start button?

In my pea brain I thought that if the drum stopped turning perhaps it would overheat and blow the thermal fuse which I understand would stop the unit from starting at all. I did remove the back panel to find and test this thermal fuse but I can't find it anywhere. There are two roundish black plastic switches, one with two spade terminals and the other with 3, and I assume one at least is the thermostat.

Did these older units have thermal fuses or was that feature housed in one of those two thermostat looking blobs?? :confused:

Any help is appreciated... Ron

I cannot find any info on the given model number.
Please check it.
Model Number Locator

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Did these older units have thermal fuses or was that feature housed in one of those two thermostat looking blobs??[/COLOR]
Some older units did have thermal fuses.
Often a dryer has the following but it is model dependent.
1. On the blower a cycling thermostat. This is the main control thermostat.
Probably the 3 connector device you mentioned as some of them have an internal heater.
2. On the blower a thermal fuse. It cuts power to the motor so the unit will seem dead. Often blows due to a dirty vent system.
3. On the heater a thermal cut-off, same as a fuse. It cuts power to the heater. Has a number of causes for it blowing.
4. On the heater a hi-limit thermostat. Should open/close if the temperature gets too high. It is another safety device so normally stays closed. It will cut power to the heater. The thermal cut-off is a backup so that if the hi-limit's contacts weld together the thermal cut-off blows.

The unit may have a belt switch. You should be able to see it by the motor. When the idler arm has tension on it the switch will be activated.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Is the belt switch just a contact type on/off or is it something I will have to put on the meter for a continuity test?[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand the question.
I always use a meter to check if a switch is OK.

It will probably look something like the following.
Part number: AP3094230

Unless I'm reading this wrong (which is always possible) I see the Model number as: UO-83101

I did look for a belt switch and yes there is one there (good!) and I pulled it out and tested it on a meter and it's OK! Appears that my problem may be limited to the belt so hopefully they'll have one in stock for me tomorrow (if that model number makes sense to them) and I can put this old beast back together again with the drum secured where it should be.