I have a Whirlpool LTI-6701W3 Gas Dryer. Everyone says it doesn't exist... I know. It is actually a circa 1969 model dryer and it's been in my home ever since I bought the place and worked great for many years!! I'm very happy with it.

Recently, it's been failing to dry clothes within a reasonable amount of time. I've opened it and done some testing. A flame ignites several seconds after the timer is activated. It will stay on for 30 seconds or so until there is a series of rough clicking noises and the flame goes out. After running the dryer for a few minutes, the flame will not come back on at all.

I've thoroughly cleaned all lint from the inside of the dryer, including the lint shaft, exhaust tube, etc. I've measured voltage into the gas valve, it remains a constant 124V after the flame goes out. Power to the igniter is cut off after the flame goes out and never receives a power signal after that.

After reading many posts and forums, it would seem the most likely cause of this is the coils, without actually testing them for resistance, I'm not positively sure.

It is a little harder trying to get the proper advice for this particular model due to its age. And, locating replacement parts seems a stretch, too, so I'm hoping to rely on Whirlpool's reputation for not changing their designs much over the years.

This being explained, would you agree with the diagnosis of bad coils and are there any available for this model yet?

If it helps, I also lifted the original part number off the WR Gas Valve from inside the dryer, it is: #338832 and the igniter control module is Part# 340313

Is there a definitive test to determine the coils are bad? I have ohm measurements as a baseline, but don't know if they are accurate for this model: coil 1- 1365ohms, 560ohms and coil 2- 1220 ohms.

It also seems to me that if the coils are the problem, that would explain why there is constant power to the gas valve but why the igniter never receives voltage after the first flame goes out.

Two other suggestions were the flame sensor (which shouldn't be bad since the gas valve continues to receive voltage) and the cycling thermostat (not sure how to test that for sure)

Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

Thank you
Jeremy Swanson