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Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDE6400AYW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16023110.pdf
Unforetunately it does not specifically show your unit but I think yours is probably close to a MDE6200 see page 10-25 for the wiring diagram.
Take a look in the control console for the wiring diagram for your unit, they like to hide them there.

The below assumes that the unit does not buzz when you use the push-to-start.

Manually activate the door switch to be sure the light goes out and give it a try,
Note this does not rule out the door switch totally as it could be the contacts are messed up.

The most common cause would be one of the thermal fuses has blown, this prevents the motor from running. Item 11 in "Heater" section and Item 10 in "Motor drive" section.
Also the door switch or the push-to-start switch.

Easiest way to check is with a meter.

If a fuse is blown be sure to clean the interior including the blower wheel. Also clean/check your vent system.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

I am unsure about this as I am quite frankly guessing a bit that your unit is the same as the one I sited. I would be more confident if you had found the wiring diagram in the unit and then could compare it to the one on Page 10-25. It is not unusual for them to be missing.

I checked the thermal fuses and the door switch and they are fine, Incidentally, the problem happened right after a thunderstorm.
I took another look at the wiring diagram after you mentioned the thunderstorm. On most units the motor and the interior light get power from the same side of the line. The diagram I used shows that they use different sides so I would check at the plug that you have L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral = 120 volts
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If you have not already done it try turning the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.

Is there a PCB,
Usually a PCB will be in the control console and I did not see one. This is one of the reasons I chose the 10-25 wiring diagram.

could it be the timer switch?
How do I test the timer switch?
It could be. To check unplug the unit and check 1 contacts for continuity.
Could also be the push-to-start switch.

also I keep hearing there is a test you can do to see the motor is not fried.
You can make up a test cord. But would be easier just to check from the grey to the red on the motor, with the push to start activated you should get 120 volts. You could also check the windings for continuity.

i checked the diagram inside the dryer and it looks like L2 powers the interior lamp and L1 powers the motor.
I checked the L1 to N and L2 to N and they are 120v. each.

I got a whirl pool dryer it wont start i brought a relay it still wont start its electric