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mh718  
#1 Posted : Friday, June 26, 2009 3:20:57 PM(UTC)
mh718

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Based on the number of posts on Dacor F1 problems and the limited number of replies and follow-ups either no one knows what to do or people replace the ECR at $400 and go happily on their way. In the interest of the psychological well-being of other Dacor owners, I implore those who have resolved this issue, to please speak up.

Meanwhile, I will tell you my long tale.

I bought a floor model dual-fuel RSD30 for a not-yet-built kitchen. Once the kitchen was ready, the range went in. It all worked out just fine except for an F2 error. I replaced the oven sensor for about $50 because I did not want to get into the guts and find something more expensive. Luckily, it seemed to fix the error and all was okay for a while.

After a few months of use, it started to give an F1 error. This started right after shutting off the oven from any mode of cooking. It usually took a few times (maybe 3-5) of canceling the beeping before it stopped. Sometimes I opened the oven door and this seemed to stop it from recurring. I thought it could be too hot -- it was also a way to get the fan to stop running sooner, as I found that annoying. It would stay on for hours.

Then it got worse. The F1 error came on in the middle of the night (usually 3 or 4 am) about 8 hours after the oven was used. Then it happened at 4 am when I hadn't used the oven in days. I thought it was related to the damp weather (don't ask me why I thought that--grasping at straws). Then, it wouldn't work at all. I tried all the oven modes, but it started to heat for about 10 seconds and just shut off, giving me only the time.

I did a self-clean cycle to give the oven a work out (don't ask me why I thought that would help, either). It did the self-clean just fine, but then at the end it beeped and beeped F1 and wouldn't stop; the door was locked. I shut it off at the breaker. The next day, after it had cooled, I turned it back on and the door was unlocked, but it started beeping F1 again. I couldn't get it to stop.

I was, however, able to use the oven again. It worked. But the beeping is now a permanent state of affairs after the oven is done cooking. I have to turn it off at the breaker.

Diagnostics:
Disconnected touch pad, turned oven power back on, got F1 errror.
Checked the voltage for the J2 1-3 pins: reads 24volts.

So, does this mean the ERC is shot for sure?

I saw this post and wondered if there was anything to it--has to do with the door latch. Sounded like my original problem:
<title>Dacor Range F1 Error Code

Thanks for your help. I PROMISE to post a follow-up for the benefit of humanity.
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zeke42  
#2 Posted : Sunday, October 18, 2009 1:25:20 PM(UTC)
zeke42

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I am wondering if you've found a solution to this problem yet. I have the same model Dacor and am having very similar problems. My RSD30 has been giving me an intermittent F1 error for quite a while. Having been a computer repair tech in my younger days I know intermittent problems are the hardest to solve (they never act up when the repair person is present!)

A few days ago the intermittent has changed into an "anytime the oven is not being used" problem. This in a way is a good thing as now I'll be able to show it to a repair person (can you tell I'm a glass half-full person?)

The only solution I've been using for months now is shutting the oven off at the breaker. (Which makes using the cooktop difficult, but I've taken to keeping matches near by and lighting the gas burners the old fashioned way.)

So my question comes down to this: is this just a easy part replacement (I don't fear pulling out a PCB and pulling out my soldering iron if it comes to it) or do I have to bite the bullet and prepare for $400-$500 in repairs?

Thanks for any feedback you can provide.



On a related (but not really) note:

Since remodeling my kitchen I've found putting in high end appliances can be really good or really bad. About five years ago my $1500 GE refrigerator read 120 degrees (on the inside!) one morning. I had an extended warranty from Best Buy. They sent out someone who could go as far as replacing gaskets. I asked if he was GE certified and he wasn't. BestBuy didn't have any GE certified repair people on their list in San Diego! They no longer carried GE so they tried swapping out a lower end other brand for me. I insisted they special order a new GE and replace my old one with it. The good news: they loaned me another refrigerator until my new GE came in. After installing my new GE they voided the remaining 18 months on my 24 month extended warranty. It was the last purchase I made at BestBuy. I've also started buying lower end items (at least if you have to trash them they didn't cost that much in the first place.)
mh718  
#3 Posted : Sunday, October 18, 2009 5:24:13 PM(UTC)
mh718

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I could have sworn I posted a follow-up already, but it must have been on a different forum.

The short story is that I sent the parts to a place in Canada that repairs them or tells you if its not repairable. It was not repairable. They sent it all back to me, only charging me for shipping, I think, or maybe some small amount to have a look at it. I thought it was worth the risk--ApplianceTimers.com.

Very nice people.

At any rate, I had to buy a new control unit. It cost me about $300. I swapped it in and I have not had a single problem since. The kit I bought came with a new sensor as well. If you want the name of the part and the place I bought it, I can look it up for you. It was such a relief actually. No more shutting it off at the breaker, no more holding my breath when I stopped baking, no more beeping in the middle of the night. Even the fan shuts off after a much more reasonable period of time--a few minutes, not hours. It's been many months and it's been just perfect.

I will tell you it probably is the timer, and it probably isn't repairable, and it may not really be worth the hassle of disconnecting the relay to have that tested (as I did). There's a lot of wires and they are all in the back of the oven and you have to carefully keep track so you put them all back where they came from. And getting to it is a big pain too. You have to take all the burners off and remove the oven top. So, I'd say just get a new timer and leave the back of the oven as is. If your problems sound like mine, then that's the problem.

Let me know if you need any more info. And good luck. You will like your oven so much better when it actually works.
zeke42  
#4 Posted : Monday, October 19, 2009 8:48:18 AM(UTC)
zeke42

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I'm glad you got your range working, but I'm sorry you had to go through what you did to get there. But if your efforts help others you'll have earned karma points (or something like that), so yes I will happily take you up on your offer to look up the info regarding the part you finally bought to fix it and where you got it from and thank you in advance.

I like the range great, but the F1 (beeping) is quite annoying, and turning it off at the breaker makes me uneasy as now that I have to flip the breaker off within minutes of using the oven I'm afraid that the proper cooling cycle isn't taking place risking damage to other components.

After my post yesterday I was able to locate a number of technical / service manuals on the range. I hope you're going to tell me that the part you replaced is the controller just inside the front panel (it can't be that easy, can it?) While $300 for the part pictured in the manual seems high it's not far off for other similar parts I had to buy for other equipment (audio receiver.) Although I'll admit to being slightly concerned about laying out $300 and not fixing the problem, but that's the risk of self repair.

By the way, there is a set of eight front panel tests on page 31 of the Dacor Technical Manual (pdf page 32.) Were you aware of these tests, and if so did you try them? If so were they of any help? (They require two people one at the breaker and one at the raange and I can't run them until someone else gets home...)

Sorry for the long message, but any help you can provide will be very much appreciated.

--Zeke42
mh718  
#5 Posted : Monday, October 19, 2009 9:13:35 AM(UTC)
mh718

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Yes, I did those tests. I don't remember what they told me. That things were okay, I think. I think they all tested stuff outside of the clock unit. Don't quote me on that.

At any rate, the part is, indeed, the entire processor/computer looking clock gadget at the very front of the oven. You re-use the same touchpad, but the rest of it you just swap in to replace the old one. Takes about 10 minutes. If you are comfortable taking out things from inside of computers, it's pretty much the same idea--be careful with the wire ribbons, don't bend the pins. Sticking the touchpad back down was a bit of a problem. I think I used a little rubber cement.

I bought it from Pro Supply Co.
Here's the link to the part (no photo, but this is definitely it--you can call them, too, they are nice on the phone):
701002
It's called and Oven Control Service Kit and it comes with a new sensor, too.

The price has gone up , but this is from my receipt last summer:
Part No. 701002

Subtotal: $202.45
Shipping & Handling: $8.59
Tax: $0.00
Order Total: $211.04

So, not too bad. I think these guys were the cheapest and it shipped fast. Post back here if it works for you as it did for me.
zeke42  
#6 Posted : Monday, October 19, 2009 9:37:59 AM(UTC)
zeke42

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Great, I see the part and location in the Parts Catalog. The catalog also shows how to get to it, so I think you're right it won't be difficult at all. Thanks for all your help - having someone else with the same (I hope) problem gives me fairly good assurance I'll be buying the right part instead of grasping at straws (or paying a repair person a couple hundred dollars plus markup on the part!)

--Zeke42

Note: I think this will be my last post on this thread, but I made it with the chance someone else may benefit from the link(s) to the manuals I've included in this and my previous post. Thanks again!
hopperw  
#7 Posted : Monday, February 8, 2010 12:08:59 PM(UTC)
hopperw

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I have a Dacor CPS130 that currently has the door latch stuck in the locked position. This happened after a self clean cycle when the door latch apparently wouldn't release after the unit had cooled. It gave the obligatory string of beeps and error code F8 (failure of door latch motor).
I lucked out in (manually) releasing the latch to get the door to open, but cannot get the latch to retract....is it a certainty that the latch motor is shot??

Is there any way I can get an electrical schematic of this oven?
zeke42  
#8 Posted : Monday, February 8, 2010 4:52:02 PM(UTC)
zeke42

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I found a detailed "Dacor Technical Manual" at: Dacor Technical Manual

You may (or may not) need to sign up for a scribd account (they are free) to view the manual, and I was able to download a copy for future reference.

Good luck
--zeke42
Alkar  
#9 Posted : Monday, July 12, 2010 7:13:32 PM(UTC)
Alkar

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Best deal for part 701002 I found is Appliance Zone.
entropy_dacor  
#10 Posted : Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:58:13 AM(UTC)
entropy_dacor

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I’ve had the same problems with the Dacor range and the infernal beeping and F1 display. I’ve gone through two control units. So, if you think that a new control unit is the answer you may only be half right. One thing I’ve learned is that the door may not shut properly. This will allow the oven to cook your circuitry. (One control unit was lost in an oven self clean.) In the meantime, I’ve found that if you remove the forward panel, you can sabotage the little black beeper with a small screw driver. I know it’s a jury-rig fix, but you won’t have to deal with the beeping while you wait for a new control unit. The oven and all the controls will work; however, you will not get any sound from the timers. As a disclaimer, I didn’t remove the beeper, just scrambled around in the little hole on the back. I’m sure with a precise procedure such as this, results are sure to vary…
Good luck!
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