I replaced the Control Board on my Maytag MEW6630DDS and below is an outline how easy it is to do. Job is EASILY complete in less than one hour and is NOT worth $600 PLUS PARTS quoted by Maytag Service to do the work. Poorly designed parts with over priced service. I will never buy Maytag again.


For background , feel free to search and find my original post complaining about Maytag parts and warranty. None of that changes.

My control board failed as evidence by run away temps. Upper oven would go nuclear glowing deep red and never shutting off. Control board was diagnosed by service tech as failed.

Purchased a remanufactured control board for about $150 less than new. New was on backorder anyway. Same 90 day warranty.

To access control panel do the following
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* TURN OFF POWER AT BREAKER BOX *
* TURN OFF POWER AT BREAKER BOX *
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Remove Doors (remove screws, plates above hinges, raise door slightly and pull out. Racks can stay.

Remove side trim and bottom trim pieces which secure oven in cabinet.

From below bottom oven, pull oven assembly out of cabinet approx 6inches.

DID YOU TURN OFF THE POWER AT THE BREAKER ? DO IT NOW.

Look at now exposed side brackets for control panel and remove hex fasteners on both sides. If your oven is tucked in a corner, it might be hard to reach one of the sides.

Front control panel can now be pulled forward and rotated down.
Touch panel ribbons are removed by GENTLY pulling on PLASTIC TABS on top of control panel posts....DO NOT PULL ON RIBBONS, they will slip out as soon as clip is moved upwards.

Control board fastens to panel with hex fasteners on either end.

TAKE A PICTURE OF THE CONTROL BOARD WIRE CONNECTIONS BEFORE YOU REMOVE WIRE HARNESSES.

LAST CHANCE>>>>>DID YOU TURN OFF THE POWER AT THE BREAKER ? ONE LAST CHANCE BEFORE YOU KILL YOURSELF

Start on left and Remove ONE harness at a time and transfer to new board. If you are brave, smart, or attentive to details, you can do two at a time. The four color coded harnesses on the right can be removed all at same time. Color Code label is on the board.

If you are lucky, the new control panel frame matches the screw layout of the control panel face plate. Mine did not. I will have to bend the control board bracket in order for the control board to attach to control panel.

Put control panel assembly back up and attach with screws.

Slide oven back into cabinet hole. Attach trim pieces.

Put doors back on reverse how you took them off

Now you can turn breaker back on. Check Clock, etc. Run it through a series of settings and you are back in business.

And for the record, I will still NEVER buy another Maytag appliance. Four of five newly purchased items for new construction home failed within 6months of warranty end and Maytag was ZERO help with any issues. Almost $5,000 of appliances, and they IGNORED my request for help on my double oven which was a DANGEROUS FIRE HAZARD. Why would I pay $800 to repair an oven that had failed in less than four years with no assurance it wouldn't fail again ?

I am very familiar with Whirlpool's cross franchise brand names and have only just begun my public campaign exposing their poor products.

I will buy LG, Bosch, Heier, ....I would buy a wood fired brick oven from a yak herder in Mongolia before I will ever buy a Whirlpool sourced item.

There is no excuse for the arrogance in their business practices and the wreckless and dangerous decisions around defective products. I am not the only person to experience the overheating and out of control conditions.

In case it wasn't seen, I sent my board to ********** who tested and refurbed for about $125 plus my shipping to them. I think I was in for $150 total. Not sure what a reman part from sears goes for these days.

Mine has been up for almost a year with no issues.

And yes, I am still very dissappointed with Whirlpool/Maytag

Same here with the temporary fix early on, it eventually failed again. I (especially my wife) was not excited about going without an oven for any length of time but there was no real choice. I got lucky because Sears had a refurb board they sold fairly inexpensive. When I went to install it, the board frame and fastener holes did not line up, off by a quarter of an inch so I returned it. That kind of forced me into getting the OEM board fixed since I knew the brackets would line up properly.

I was committed to fixing the unit and would just have to go a week or so without cooking in the oven.

While I am not expert, I was real concerned about the oven overheating and starting a fire until I had the board repaired. Even then, I didn't leave the kitchen the first few times we ran the upper oven with convection going.

While I was tempted to bend the bracket to make fit in the field, I decided I didn't like the prospect of bending the tabs and having an issue later then Sears says I bent the bracket out of and/or damaged the board.

Sears accepted my return which made that decision even easier.

Either way ends up getting us to the same place, we have a refurb board of some kind (sears or other source) and there was no real help or support from the Whirlpool/Maytag corporate team.

Good luck to you. I am about to start a letter writing campaign to Whirlpool BOD, it will be interesting to see what kind of response it creates.