Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/3/2011(UTC) Posts: 1
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Gene, Thank you so much. I've been searching for answers, and this thread covered the details I needed. The fridge appears to be fixed (only 2 days now; more later), and it only took $200 in parts and a bit of patience. Much much cheaper than replacing it.
Y'all are great! - Bryan
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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You are welcome Bryan. I'm glad it helped you and it's up and running.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/8/2009(UTC) Posts: 19
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I can't believe that I am back after ALMOST 3 YEARS. I replaced the defroster heater, the board and the two thermistors. It has been running until now! Same problem - water line fozen, top of the fridge and freezer warm, cold at the bottom half.
Last time, after replacing the board and the heater, it was the thermister change finally fixed.
What could be the problem this time? Should I go through the doagnostic steps again? heater first?
Thank you in advance! It'll be interesting if Gene or Richappy answers again this time!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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I would start with inspecting the frost pattern, if totally frozen, defrost and check heater. It's also possible one of the thermistor splices failed. When fixed, put a surge protector in the wall outlet, 1000 joules, model F9H620CW available on Amazon, $9.99
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/8/2009(UTC) Posts: 19
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Thank you, Richappy. Since the freezer temp was turned down to 0 for a few days, there was not much frost. I did jump the line and defrost on the board and the defrost heater was good. Now I turned it on to max cold and see if the ice builds up again. The symptoms this time are water line frozen, ice in the ice maker melt, massive amount of ice built up on the lower part of the freezer, top part of the freezer was actually not cold, the fruit basket at the bottom of the fridge was frozen. Could it be something else this time? Also the ice maker has not made any ice after I turned it back on for over an hour. Thanks!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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Either your fridg has developed a refrigerant leak, or the evaporator thermistor opened up. Defrost the coils, then check temperature and frost pattern, if still partial frost, you are low on refrigerant, usually due to a evaporator seal leak.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/8/2009(UTC) Posts: 19
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After being on overnight, the coils are evenly frosted top to bottom (I left the back panel off). However, not a single ice cube was made! The top portion of the freezer is not freezing. Is the ice maker broken?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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If the freezer fan is running but the freezer temperature is not cold enough, you have a refrigerant leak or a bad condensing fan motor.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/8/2009(UTC) Posts: 19
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Thank you for the quick reply. I know the condenser fan is running because I just vacuumed the condenser and saw the fan running. However, I didn't hear the freezer fan (which is underneath the ice maker in the freezer compartment, I assume). How do I check if the freezer fan motor is good or bad? Btw, the frost is even and defrost is automatic and the lower part of both the freezer and fridge is cold. Water is still not coming out and ice is not being made. Thanks!
P.S. Just checked, with the freezer door open, the freezer fan is not running. Question still remains, how do I check is it is bad?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/8/2009(UTC) Posts: 19
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Ok, I took the freezer/evaporator motor off and tested the continuity between the red and white wire, the reading is zero ohm. This means the motor is bad, right? Can all of the above be caused by the freezer fan not running? I'm ordering the motor. Thanks again.
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