Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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Here is a site that says it is. When I look at the diagrams of your machine it looks like a Whirlpool and in the diagram it sure looks like a Whirlpool part. www.ued.net - Product DetailNot being a part of APP or any parts supplier I cannot guarantee compatibility, but I would check with APP and see if what they say, and unless they say it is not my overall recommendation is to go for it. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
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Didn't work out as hoped. Paid repairman to tell me the element was the problem. Part was right. When the repairman said $135 to put in the element (after paying for the diagnostic visit), which was a 5 minute job, I got kind of discouraged about having him do anything to the unit. So, I put in the new element, no heat. Prior to his visit, I replaced the round sensor on the stack leading from the filter, and the sensor on the element, and after his visit, the element itself. I see there is a microtemp sensor as well, but it seems like I might just be wasting time and money.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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Hi DCMarc
Well I am very sorry this has not worked out for you.
First of all, I think the tech you got was totally out of line in terms of charges, as you said, $135 to put in the heating element after paying for an initial diagnosis is just not right. And was the heating element the problem in the first place?
Also, I probably should have asked you to do some testing before you bought the heating element. When individuals post and describe a problem we try to take them through the steps to isolate the problem before recommending they spend money on parts. When someone like yourself writes in with a specific request, I usually assume they have isolated the problem and just need their request answered. For example, since you would need a new heating element if your old one had a broken element, which can be checked by inspection, or by a simple continuity test I assumed you had confirmed this was the problem and simply needed the part.
I hate to see you give up on what is a pretty good and very expensive machine, but I don't want to waste any more of your money either.
I recommend you stay with it a little while. You will need to have an electrical meter and I am assuming that your machine operates, but that the dryer just will not heat up. If this is the case (or if it is not the case please describe in detail what happened with the machine and what its current condition is) and you want to continue please post and I will make some suggestions. If after that you feel comfortable then you can purchase some more parts and see if that works.
If you do not want to continue to work on the machine, I suggest you ask around to try and find a competent and reasonable and ethical repair service in your area and get them out. Since you have already replaced the heating element, assuming the machine is running but not heating it should be fairly easy for them to diagnose and fix the problem.
Good luck, sorry it has not worked out and let us know what you decide.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
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Thanks for your guidance. I assumed the diagnosis was sound, which may have been my mistake. So yes, all runs, but no heat. I do know the person using it hadn't been cleaning out the lint screen at the back of the drum, so I first assumed he had managed to blow one of the two round sensors, and changed those. (One on each stack, the one behind the lint screen and the one at the side of the coil assembly.) (I see a third sensor, a temp sensor, on the lint stack.) I called the repairman. He said it was the element. So, I installed that, but no change in the situation. How should I go about diagnosing further? And again, thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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Ok Here's what I suggest. You will need a multi-meter. 1. With the machine plugged in test to see that you have 120 volts at each outside terminal. Be careful as you are working with live 240 voltage. If you do not, you have a breaker problem. If you do, unplug the machine and do the following. 2. Test for continuity on each of the thermal fuse, hi limit thermostate and thermal cut off. There should be continuity on each one. The most likely problem is your thermal fuse, given that the machine was not being cleaned of lint. That fuse blows when too much heat builds up from lack of air circulation. here is the part Part Details - FRIGIDAIRE Fuse - thermal, part number: 53033080963. If these all check out, test the heater element for continuity with the ohn meter. (test the old one too, to see if it was really bad) You should have 10 to 20 ohms of resistence. Obviously you want to make certain everything is plugged in and attached correctly. Also use the opportunity to thoroughly clean the machine and the venting duct and blower. Good luck and let us know the results.
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