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Our fridge's on the door water dispenser suddenly stopped working. it makes the appropriate noises when you push the button. after about a week of it not working, the ice maker stopped as well. any suggestions as to what could be wrong?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/10/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,363
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Your water line could be frozen in the door. You can disconnect the line under the unit before it goes into the door at the bottom hinge. Push the dispenser button and see if it comes out there. If it does try a hair dryer blowing where the water line is at the dispenser for a few minutes.
See if your hear the noises coming from the water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in to the unit when you try the water. If you do hear it working, disconnect the line coming out of the valve and see if water comes out when you try the water.
There is a screen filter in the valve where the water comes into it. It can stop up with sediment.
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when i try the water at the back of the fridge with the water line off, it squirts out, where is the screen filter?
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i have tested the back of the fridge at the valve and water comes out there as well as at the tube at the bottom of the freezer where it enters the door. i tried the hair dryer but that didn't seem to help. would it be smart to enmpty the fridge and let it thaw to see if that works? we were moving in to this new house and turned the fridge on without a whole bunch of stuff in the freezer. could that have helped to freeze the water tube?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/10/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,363
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I believe it's a bad design allowing it to freeze. If you can let it melt on it's own without loosing food, that will work. Open the freezer door to allow it to thaw. I've heard of people taping extra insulation to the area inside the freezer door to prevent it from happening.
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Originally Posted by: eshe33 Our fridge's on the door water dispenser suddenly stopped working. it makes the appropriate noises when you push the button. after about a week of it not working, the ice maker stopped as well. any suggestions as to what could be wrong? I replaced the filter in mine. After that, it worked fine. If you do not want to purchase an new filter, take the old one out, empty all the water out from it, and plug it back it. Then try your water dispenser again. :)
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I had the same problem. Replacing the filter didn't work but I could hear water re-filling the new filters so it at least told me water was coming in. I thought my water line could be frozen so I snapped the front panel off of the bottom of the fridge then I pulled apart the fitting that connects the waterline to the base of the freezer door. When I hit the water lever, water came out on the floor so I simply reconnected it and it started working. In my case it didn't appear to be frozen; either the line was kinked or there was something stuck at that fitting at the base of the freezer door. I hope this might help someone with a similar issue.
Perrdiddy
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My Frigidaire model # is FRS26ZGHW0 and is approaching it's 14th birthday. Recently the water dispenser just stopped working but the ice maker continues to work fine, filling with water, making ice, and dispensing. Prior to this I've never had a problem. After doing much research online, reading message boards and watching videos, I've learned my model is different from any of the Frigidaires I've seem or read about. So I think I'm getting close to figuring it out but not 100% sure. One thing I've learned is that I don't have one big water inlet valve unit, but two: a single coil primary water inlet valve on the bottom right (as I look at the back) and a dual coil secondary water inlet valve on the bottom left.
Here's what I know and have tried:
- When I press a cup in to dispense water, both water inlet valves make a humming noise like they're trying to work.
- Turned off water, disconnected water supply to primary water inlet valve, turned on water and had a good stream into my bucket. (Also learned for the 1st time that the guy who installed this almost 14 years ago tapped into the hot water supply.)
- The filter is located in the top right back (as I look at the front) of the refrigerator side. I replaced the filter about a month ago with an authentic filter (not knock-off aftermarket). Took the filter out, emptied the filter cup of water, replaced the cup without the filter, tried to dispense water. Nothing came out of the door but when I removed the filter cup it was full of water.
- At the bottom hinge of the freezer door, I disconnected the tube at the joint, pressed to dispense water and nothing came out there.
- Tested the valve coils for continuity. Saw a video that said to set Ohms meter to lowest setting (200) and that if it reads between 500-1500 Ohms then the coil has continuity. If no reading then the coil has failed. I have 3 total coils (1 on primary and 2 on secondary). Tested them all this way and got no reading. But when I set my meter up a notch to the 2000 setting I got readings of 341 to 344 on all 3 coils. So I don't know what this means.
See if this sounds right: I have a good flow of water from the source into the primary valve and it's working fine allowing water to get to the filter. Water from the filter goes to the secondary valve where the ice maker side works but perhaps the water dispenser side has failed (despite what the Ohms test showed). Or maybe the water dispenser valve is fine but there is a problem on the refrigerated tank side such as a frozen line. But nothing has changed in 14 years and never had a problem before.
I'd like to pull the water tube off the water-out side of the secondary water valve for the water dispenser to see if water comes out from there when I try to dispense water but the connector is not like anything I've seen in videos or pictures and I don't want to break it. It's not a quick-connector where you push up on it while pulling out the tube or a threaded nut. It looks like the tube is just inserted into a light blue receptacle that has a little square window-like notch on the side where I can see the water tube. Can I just pull the tube out and then push it back in when done testing?
I'm tempted to just buy the dual coil secondary water inlet valve (part # 218832401) and try it but don't want to overlook anything. Would appreciate thoughts and advice.
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Originally Posted by: NotSoHandyTodd My Frigidaire model # is FRS26ZGHW0 and is approaching it's 14th birthday. Recently the water dispenser just stopped working but the ice maker continues to work fine, filling with water, making ice, and dispensing. Prior to this I've never had a problem. After doing much research online, reading message boards and watching videos, I've learned my model is different from any of the Frigidaires I've seem or read about. So I think I'm getting close to figuring it out but not 100% sure. One thing I've learned is that I don't have one big water inlet valve unit, but two: a single coil primary water inlet valve on the bottom right (as I look at the back) and a dual coil secondary water inlet valve on the bottom left.
Here's what I know and have tried:
- When I press a cup in to dispense water, both water inlet valves make a humming noise like they're trying to work.
- Turned off water, disconnected water supply to primary water inlet valve, turned on water and had a good stream into my bucket. (Also learned for the 1st time that the guy who installed this almost 14 years ago tapped into the hot water supply.)
- The filter is located in the top right back (as I look at the front) of the refrigerator side. I replaced the filter about a month ago with an authentic filter (not knock-off aftermarket). Took the filter out, emptied the filter cup of water, replaced the cup without the filter, tried to dispense water. Nothing came out of the door but when I removed the filter cup it was full of water.
- At the bottom hinge of the freezer door, I disconnected the tube at the joint, pressed to dispense water and nothing came out there.
- Tested the valve coils for continuity. Saw a video that said to set Ohms meter to lowest setting (200) and that if it reads between 500-1500 Ohms then the coil has continuity. If no reading then the coil has failed. I have 3 total coils (1 on primary and 2 on secondary). Tested them all this way and got no reading. But when I set my meter up a notch to the 2000 setting I got readings of 341 to 344 on all 3 coils. So I don't know what this means.
See if this sounds right: I have a good flow of water from the source into the primary valve and it's working fine allowing water to get to the filter. Water from the filter goes to the secondary valve where the ice maker side works but perhaps the water dispenser side has failed (despite what the Ohms test showed). Or maybe the water dispenser valve is fine but there is a problem on the refrigerated tank side such as a frozen line. But nothing has changed in 14 years and never had a problem before. I'd like to pull the water tube off the water-out side of the secondary water valve for the water dispenser to see if water comes out from there when I try to dispense water but the connector is not like anything I've seen in videos or pictures and I don't want to break it. It's not a quick-connector where you push up on it while pulling out the tube or a threaded nut. It looks like the tube is just inserted into a light blue receptacle that has a little square window-like notch on the side where I can see the water tube. Can I just pull the tube out and then push it back in when done testing? I'm tempted to just buy the dual coil secondary water inlet valve (part # 218832401) and try it but don't want to overlook anything. Would appreciate thoughts and advice. My fridge is almost an identical model FRS26ZH having the very slow water from the dispenser. I've done all the tests as NotSoHandyTodd did and findings are the same. My question is the same as his on how to remove the water tube from the secondary valve. Can I just pull the tube ou and then push it back in when done testing? thanks
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I had the same issue out of the blue after 5 years of no problems, I had no water coming from the dispenser... I was able to fix it in minutes with a hair dryer.
1. Check that the water flows to the door - as mentioned in other responses, there is a waterline from the fridge that connects to a waterline in the freezer door - place a towel underneath the connector and disconnect the two lines. make sure this is clean of debris. With the freezer door closed, press the water tab - this should make water flow thru the fridge side water line. IF it does flow, then this fix should work for you. IF water does not flow, then you have another problem and this fix won't help you.
2. Open the freezer door and remove all items from the shelves on the door. Using a hair dryer and starting at the bottom of the door and moving up to the water dispenser, warm the door up - until it is room temp and not cold to the touch, making sure that the door (which is plastic) doesn't overheat. This took about 2-3 minutes for me. Once the door is warm to the touch - turn off the hair dryer and re-connect the water lines using the connector.
3. Close the freezer door and using a cup or glass, depress the water button. It took about 30 seconds or so, but finally a thin line of water came out, followed seconds later by a couple pieces of ice. After the ice, the water flowed as normal.
It may take longer with the hair dryer for you and it may take a couple of tries, but it worked and it didn't require waiting for a service appointment. Good luck.
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