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I've tested two stoves and I have the same issue with both.
A while back, I had a 26" Kenmore Mark II and one day the oven died. The range still worked, but the oven wouldn't heat. My wife and I opted to upgrade rather than repair so we just bought a used oven over the weekend. Well, we have the same issue with the newer one. There's power on all four range elements but nothing in the oven.
I found this odd and it's probably not the oven that's causing the issue. So I checked the outlet voltages and everything seems fine.
Live-1 to Live-2 = 240V
Live-1 to Neutral = 120V
Live-2 to Neutral = 120V
Live-1 to Ground = 120V
Live-2 to Ground = 120V
For kicks, I checked the resistance in the oven elements and I was reading about 25 ohm's - which I believe is respectable.
Could this be a breaker issue? I checked the breaker (40amp) and intentionally tripped it to test and it trips just fine. I'm stumped because there's not much to this and I don't know what else to check.
Any ideas?
- Shaun
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Hi Shaun,
What is the complete model number of the last range?
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Hi Shaun,
What is the complete model number of the last range?
Gene. Hi Gene: I'm not 100% certain - I've looked all over the stove (front and back) for a model name/number and I can't find one. The dash board says Kenmore Easy Clean and it has the mechanical/analogue controls. I'm guessing it's a few years old. But like I said, I have a hunch that it's not oven related because it's the same exact problem that I had with the oven that I replaced it with. Do you think that a breaker could be at fault? Or is it just a coincidence?
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By the way - I forgot to mention...
When I initially tested the outlet, I wasn't getting any voltage from the L1 or L2 when connected to the Neutral (white wire from wall). I took the outlet apart and noticed that the neutral had in fact come disconnected. So I reconnected it, assembled the outlet, retested it and then all voltages were OK. Despite the neutral being disconnected, I was still able to use the four ranges with no problems. With the Neutral being disconnected, would that have caused a wire to fry in the oven? I would assume no, and that it just wouldn't work properly.
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If there is an electronic oven control then missing neutral could cause a problems. Have you looked for the model number on the frame behind the bottom drawer? I definitely need the model number and the wiring diagram.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Gene If there is an electronic oven control then missing neutral could cause a problems. Have you looked for the model number on the frame behind the bottom drawer? I definitely need the model number and the wiring diagram.
Gene. Yeah, here's the Model #: C880 6317590
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Problem solved - There's just 1 dial for the oven. But three clock dials. One of them had a small font below the dial stating "Push for Oven". So I pressed it and the oven came on. Ugh... I'm so embarassed... LOL.
Thanks for the help.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it and it was that simple.
Gene.
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