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My kenmore electric dryer runs fine but will not come up to full heat. I checked all the units that i think are thermostets and have gotten readings on all of them except one set of contacts [ posts ] on a pot with 4 contacts.... The center one tdoes not with purple wires do not give me a reading...Is this the problem unit ??????Ted
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[FONT='Times New Roman'] Are you saying that it’s heating but taking a long time to dry clothes? The first thing I would check is the vent. Note make sure you check the vent all the way out. Whirlpool Dryer No Heat Repair Guide[/FONT]
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Originally Posted by: applianceman  [FONT='Times New Roman'] Are you saying that it’s heating but taking a long time to dry clothes? The first thing I would check is the vent. Note make sure you check the vent all the way out. Whirlpool Dryer No Heat Repair Guide[/FONT] It seems to have very low heat as if not turning on the high circuit....I have taken the whole thing apart and vleaned and vaciimed all th ducts and cleaned the vent pipe...I have also vaccumed the whole inside before putting it back together...The clothes seem to only get warm...The vent has a very strong out put out side the house..The heating coil reads 10.8 ohms and when you look at it it has a spot where it does not get a good glow This is true no matter what the heat setting is and does not change if the heat setting is changed
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This dryer was run for a time with a very restricted vent....Enough to force lint in a large quanity through the whole machine , it even burned some while laying on the heat box...No it was not mine at the time but is was installed by a sears tech and he almost completely crushed the vent pipe
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Could not find a wiring diagram for this unit, if you do not have it look in the control console.
Th 4 connector thermostat is the cycling thermostat.
One set of connectors are the contacts, should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
The other set of connectors are an internal heating element usually around 6,000 ohms. This element is used to change the dryers temperature re: adds heat to the thermostat so it's contacts open more often and this results in a lower dryer temperature. |
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[FONT='Times New Roman']I had one of the elements that would fit your dryer in my truck and tested ohms and 10.8 seemed about right. The operating thermostat may be cutting the element off to quickly but this is not a very common problem. [/FONT]
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When you looked at the element could you see it turning off and on or was it a steady glow.
If it was steady then I doubt it is a thermostat opening too soon.
Could be you have a grounded element, this can do all sorts of weird and not so wonderful things.
Unplug the unit
Disconnect both wires from the heater.
Measure from each connector to the frame.
Should be an open circuit (infinite ohms).
If OK
Reattach the wires to the heater.
Check that you have 240 volts at the plug.
Plug the unit in.
Start a cycle and see if you have 240 volts across the heater.
Be very careful 240 volts is lethal!!!
If the 240 is not there you have something weird going on. |
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Yea, that is more likely than the thermostat thing that I said and I started to say that but I was thinking that the ohms wouldn’t be close to right if it were grounded out. But that all depends on where it is grounded. If the element isn’t grounded out there is a test you can perform on it if you can get your hands on a thermometer that will allow you to test temperature inside the drum while its running. Mine has a probe that I can dangle inside the door and I perform this test often. On high heat the temperature inside the drum should go up to about 175-200 then back down to around 120-130 then back up again. This should continue throughout the cycle. If your thermometer doesn’t allow you to do this you can check it at the vent outlet but the temperature will be a little lower.
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