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The compressor properly cycles on and off. The condenser fan does not start when the compressor starts. If I spin the condenser fan after the compressor starts, then the condenser fan will continue spinning until the compressor shuts off. This symptom is consistent.
I removed the condenser fan (AP3120994) in order to test its operation. The condenser fan is an 2 watt 115 volt ac motor. When the condenser fan is connected to a power source, the fan starts immediately and continues to run until power is removed. Operation outside the refrigerator seems normal.
The compressor/condenser fan control includes an overload device, PTC relay (AP 2966871) and capacitor (AP 313171e). I assume the PTC relay supports the compressor startup. I am not sure if the capacitor supports the compressor and/or the condenser fan. The circuit diagram refers only to the capacitor (neither start nor run) with the comment "as required on some models".
Is there a way to isolate the problem to the condenser fan or capacitor or should I replace both or have I missed the problem entirely?
Thanks in advance for any help provided, CGParker
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Originally Posted by: CGParker  The compressor properly cycles on and off. The condenser fan does not start when the compressor starts. If I spin the condenser fan after the compressor starts, then the condenser fan will continue spinning until the compressor shuts off. This symptom is consistent.
I removed the condenser fan (AP3120994) in order to test its operation. The condenser fan is an 2 watt 115 volt ac motor. When the condenser fan is connected to a power source, the fan starts immediately and continues to run until power is removed. Operation outside the refrigerator seems normal.
The compressor/condenser fan control includes an overload device, PTC relay (AP 2966871) and capacitor (AP 313171e). I assume the PTC relay supports the compressor startup. I am not sure if the capacitor supports the compressor and/or the condenser fan. The circuit diagram refers only to the capacitor (neither start nor run) with the comment "as required on some models".
Is there a way to isolate the problem to the condenser fan or capacitor or should I replace both or have I missed the problem entirely?
Thanks in advance for any help provided, CGParker Cg, The overload, PTC relay and capacitor support the compressor and it's circuits. The condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan power and the 120 VAC supply to the overload device are a supply from the cold control. I would have to think, you have a loose or weak connection at the wires to the condenser fan motor, you should check that first. Otherwise the fan motor would be bad. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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I did some cleaning and checking of the motor and the motor wire connectors. Removed the temporary fan and re-installed the original motor.
Had a momentary panic until the defrost timer allowed the compressor to run (thought I had destroyed the compressor operation).
The original fan is now operating correctly cycling on and off with the compressor. This may only be temporary, so I will monitor the operation for a while to see if it continues to run as it should.
CGParker
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: CGParker I did some cleaning and checking of the motor and the motor wire connectors. Removed the temporary fan and re-installed the original motor.
Had a momentary panic until the defrost timer allowed the compressor to run (thought I had destroyed the compressor operation).
The original fan is now operating correctly cycling on and off with the compressor. This may only be temporary, so I will monitor the operation for a while to see if it continues to run as it should.
CGParker CG, Good Deal, We'll keep an eye out for your next post, Hope all stays well. :) :) :)
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There is no voltage across the starting cap and no sound like the motor wants to start.
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Originally Posted by: spencer_ledlow There is no voltage across the starting cap and no sound like the motor wants to start. Spencer, There won't be any voltage across the capacitor, unless the motor is starting or running, and it would take a special meter to read. Like all capacitors you can circuit check the component. Disconnect the wires from the capacitor, place your meter leads across the terminals on the capacitor. The meter should deflect towards a "closed" circuit then revert back to an "open" circuit. If the meter doesn't deflect or doesn't return to the "open" circuit, then the capacitor needs to be replaced. When a capacitor fails, it's usually pretty obvious, They "blow up or out". If the capacitor checks proper, then you'll need to check for voltage to the overload and the overload circuit, then the start relay and compressor motor windings.
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