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It started by no water going into the dishwasher. I replaced the water valve, still not water. I jumped the valave with direct voltage (glad OSHA wasn't around) and it worked. I checked the float switch for continuity and it opens and closes. It appears I am getting no voltage to the valve. Another odd thing is that upon selecting a wash cycle it used to take around 5 seconds for the motor to spool up, it now takes 30 or so. I believe it is the control assembly AP4113524 but at 75 dollars hate to buy it and be wrong...again. Can I test it?
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So does it sound like the control assembly? I wouldn't know where to start with just a wiring diagram. I can follow instructions, though..
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If you have a meter you can check for actual voltage and also for continuity of the wires to/from the control board. Sometimes wires get crimped and broken especially where the leave the door and enter the under tub area.
Also many dishwashers have had leaking rinse aid which has played havoc with the wires in the door.
Remove the inner door pane and take a look.
If continuity is good then odds are high it is the control board. |
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OK, found a broken black wire after I removed the door panel. Fixed the wire. Now the water wants to run as soon as I close the door. If I push the drain/off button the water still runs and it drains as well. I was able to do a wash cycle, but after the dry cycle there was water still in the tub. Any ideas?
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Try to run the diagnostics |
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Thanks for sticking with me through this. It is appreciated. I ran the automatic function test (section 5 page 6 of the manual you gave me) and received no faults. I did the sales floor demo and it cycled throgh with no problems. When I went to stop the sales floor demo the water valve opened. The only way I can get the tub to drain is by pulling a lead off of the water valve. It seems to be powered all the time, except when the tub fills. I tried doing the manual test but am unsure what results I should expect.
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In manual test you should be able to turn the different components on/off.
In auto test they should cycle as shown.
Unfortunately it is starting to sound like the control board is shot. |
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The part you need is Item 2 "Control panel" section in the Parts Breakdown diagram.
But in the parts listing it is Item 3 Control Assembly (led) AP4113524.
Looks like there is a screw up as to the parts on this unit.
I would call them to make sure you receive the correct part.
You want the Electronic Control Board.
As to whether it is worth while repairing, I hate giving recommendations as I am not there.
It depends on:
1. What would a new unit that you would be happy with cost.
2. Is the old unit washing properly.
3. What kind of shape is the old unit in. If the racks are rusting out etc., then it may be best to go new.
4. And since I am married, is the wife happy with the way it look/matches the other appliances in the kitchen. |
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