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Kenmore Elite won't fill with water
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Model: 665.15989990 Brand: Kenmore Age: 5 - 10 years
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packersphan  
#1 Posted : Saturday, March 21, 2009 5:30:32 PM(UTC)
packersphan

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I'm working on my mother's kenmore elite, it will not let water in, but drains just fine. I have tested the float switch and it is fine. I'm not sure about the water inlet device.(I don't know what you call the switch that trips to let the water run in.) I was wondering if there is some way for me to test if it is working properly. Be glad to hear any of your ideas.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, March 21, 2009 6:11:09 PM(UTC)
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On this tech sheet it is a fill valve
Here is the tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208051291.pdf

You said you checked the float switch, did you do it with a meter?
Just because it clicks does not mean the contacts in the switch closed.

Easiest way to check the fill valve is remove the connector and check it for resistance. If an open, it is shot
IF OK
Measure to see that it is getting voltage when it should.
IF NOT
You have a supply problem somewhere
IF OK
Remove the valve from the machine and clean/check the filter screen on the input side of the valve. Do not remove this screen from the valve, it is there to keep crud out which could hold the valve open and cause a flood.
If the screen is clean and it gets power but will not open, it is shot.
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packersphan  
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 22, 2009 7:00:21 AM(UTC)
packersphan

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I checked the float with a meter, it was working. Now, to check the fill valve, touching the two prongs on the valve should be the same as touching the meter probes together, correct? I have no continuity through the switch, could this be the problem? Do you sell this part?
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denman  
#4 Posted : Sunday, March 22, 2009 7:15:46 AM(UTC)
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Now, to check the fill valve, touching the two prongs on the valve should be the same as touching the meter probes together, correct?
No. It is not a switch but a solenoid which is pulled in to open the valve.

I have no continuity through the switch, could this be the problem?
It should read 695 to 995 ohms as per the tech sheet.
So if you are on the 200 ohm scale it will read as an open re: the resistance is outside that scales readability.
You have to be on the 2 Kilohm scale.

Yes they will sell it here I just could not find it, give them a call or an email.
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packersphan  
#5 Posted : Monday, March 23, 2009 10:32:28 AM(UTC)
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Checking the fill valve solenoid, I have 891 ohms. so then, when I hooked everything back up to check for voltage across the fill valve, I had 2.2V across the plug for the fill valve. As soon as i start the wash cycle, my voltage goes to Zero.
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denman  
#6 Posted : Monday, March 23, 2009 1:30:48 PM(UTC)
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Try the diagnostics.

It does look like the control board needs replacing.
I would check the wires from/to the control board to the valve just to make sure it is not a broken wirs.
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packersphan  
#7 Posted : Thursday, April 2, 2009 11:38:42 AM(UTC)
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I replaced the control board. got everything put back together, ready to go. as soon as i started the cycle there was a pop and a smell of a burnt out electrical part. i got back in there and the part that burnt up was an electrical part on the vent duct right at the top of the door. any theory on this? the dishwasher still does not work or fill with water.
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denman  
#8 Posted : Thursday, April 2, 2009 12:23:55 PM(UTC)
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Take a look at the tech sheet.
Yours may have the electric vent actuator.
I would start there.
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packersphan  
#9 Posted : Thursday, April 2, 2009 12:49:15 PM(UTC)
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yes, that is correct but do you have any guess as to why it would have "popped" and burnt up as soon as i started the dishwash cycle?
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denman  
#10 Posted : Friday, April 3, 2009 1:48:48 AM(UTC)
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Sounds like you had a dead short up there but I cannot think of why it did not show any signs of burning up originally if it was the cause of the original fault.

You will notice that the same relay (K3) on the control board runs this and the fill valve. With no voltage on this line you would not have seen a problem.
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