Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/26/2009(UTC) Posts: 10
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i get code 4 when i run diagnostic.i know this is fill code.i changed the water inlet system the water level switch housing water valve assembly and now just changed the control module.it still won`t run a cycle thru.the old module showed 2 hrs on all cycles except rinse and hold and that gets stuck at 8 min.the new module shows all the different cycle time but it only counts down a minute or 2,then the water level assembly then just constantly opens and closes.the plunger just goes up and down every couple of seconds just cycling water in and out.i even jacked up my water heater so i have 160 degree water coming in with the same results.anybody got any ideas before i dump this thing?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/26/2009(UTC) Posts: 10
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i did .thats how i got the error code 4
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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If you replaced all parts involved in the water filling process and you are sure there is nothing wrong with those parts installation and there is no water in the base of the dishwasher then I'm stumped.
Gene. P.S. Possible one of the new parts is defective.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/26/2009(UTC) Posts: 10
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yea me too .time for a new dishwasher
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/15/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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I get the same code 4 when I run the test on my SHU5306. Only there is no fill on startup. It stays in drain mode. Is this really the fill system or could it be the control module? How difficult is it to change the water level switch? I am assuming you have to pull the dishwasher out to do this.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/26/2009(UTC) Posts: 10
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yea you take off the left side cover and you will see the the whole assembly there,pretty easy.you can manually hold the red plunger up or down to see if you are getting water coming in.there is also a flow switch that is on the heating unit on the other side of the machine.my experience is there are many reasons you can get that code and by time you change all the parts you can buy a new washer.i spent over $300 and it still isn`t working.i would sell you my new patrs but i am leaving the country and won`t be back till may.so if you still need some parts at taht time let me know .
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/15/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Thanks Prop. Guess I'll take a crack at it and see what damage I can do. Worst case, we'll have to replace the DW. Thanks for the offer of selling parts. Wife won't wait until May for her dishwasher.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/15/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Update on the code 4. The main problem was the circulating pump was shot. Had to call in a tech. Estimate was $300 - $400 for repair depending on what else needed replaced. Dumped the Bosch. If 7 years is the life of a dishwasher, can't justify the price of another Bosch.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/27/2009(UTC) Posts: 7
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I have an identical problem with a SHU5315 UC12. The module has been replaced and I get a code 4. The water level assembly and switching checks out OK, but the machine is on a 2-second drain fill cycle.
What clued the tech to replace the circulation pump?
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