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a91030Mom  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, March 4, 2009 7:20:26 PM(UTC)
a91030Mom

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The griddle worked fine for a few years, then about 2 years ago it started to give out, that's when I began having trouble getting it to ignite. When I turned the griddle on I could hear a click and the igniter click, but just for a split second. I didn't smell any gas. I would have to turn the griddle on and off several times and maybe after a dozen tries or so, it would finally ignite. I got tiered of the whole thing and just started taking the "plate" off and setting on the two burners to the right of the griddle, when I had to use it. Well, we have a tradition of making pancakes every Sunday, so this is now getting old!

Last Friday I took the thing apart, the U-shaped tube where the flame comes out looks very good, nothing blocking any of the holes or anything like that. The flame igniter also looks very clean and "normal" (to me). I took more of it apart. I got under the sheet metal thing and saw where the solenoid valve was (I’ve been told it’s the solenoid valve). I unplugged the two electrodes (one blue one pinkish). I then unscrewed it from the gas supply. (See picture A) Lots of gas immediately came gushing out, so I quickly screwed it back on. I then re-plugged the two electrodes back where they were. I didn't know what else I could do, so I just put it back together and guess what, it turned on first try and worked like a champ!

I tested it often the rest of the day, turning the griddle on the gas would hear the gas come on and the igniter would turn on (nice strong blue line between the two points for as long as it took to get the flame going). Again, it turned on perfectly first try. I tested the next day, and NO GO. Back to square one.

I took the thing apart again today and unplugged the same stuff as last time, plugged the blue and pink back in, turned the griddle knob and nothing. I didn’t re-assemble all but, when I turn the griddle knob, the gas does not come out of the valve and the igniter doesn’t light, so basically it didn’t “magically” heal itself like last Friday.

Any ideas on how to proceed, what to test, etc. Let me know. I’m a housewife, but pretty handy. If I have to start replacing stuff, I want to start with the cheapest part first, then move on from there. (I once fixed my dryer by replacing a $10 part, only AFTER replacing a $100 part that didn’t do the trick; learned my lesson).

PS: I took my pictures to a local appliance repair shop to see how much this part (solenoid) cost. They first told me it’s called a solenoid and second said the manufacturer doesn’t make it anymore and has no suggestions for a replacement. I find this hard to believe, anyone know if this is true?

Picture A, depicts the solenoid valve and the two electrodes.

Picture B, depicts the view of the inside of the range, right behind the griddle knob.

Picture C, depicts where the blue and pink electrode wires go to, some computer thing on the side of the range under a burner.
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nonlocal  
#2 Posted : Saturday, May 16, 2009 12:07:39 PM(UTC)
nonlocal

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I have the same problem with my griddle igniter. About 50% of the time, when lighting, it will have a shorter than normal spark and will not light. I have to turn the knob to off and then back on to a temp again to try to re-light. My igniter has two prongs which I assumed the spark would pass between. However, I am seeing the spark travel to the burner instead whether or not it lights or is a short duration and doesn't light. Have you observed the spark when you have a failure to light? It would be interesting to know if your spark jumps to the burner like mine when it fails.

I was hoping to fix mine by getting the spark to jump between the prongs.

I am going to poke around some more and see if I can get a schematic of the igniter circuit.

Scott
a91030Mom  
#3 Posted : Monday, May 18, 2009 8:41:52 PM(UTC)
a91030Mom

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Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48” Griddle not igniting - Appliance Blog Repair Forums

The whole thing is at the above URL (different forum/blog). There are two pages.

Best of luck!
nonlocal  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, May 19, 2009 4:12:00 AM(UTC)
nonlocal

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Right after I posted on this blog I found your long exchange with Brian on the other blog. Looked like exactly the same symptoms so I ripped out the igniter circuit block and it was identical to that part you were replacing. I ordered one and have my fingers crossed!
GeoEdwards  
#5 Posted : Sunday, March 8, 2015 12:39:24 PM(UTC)
GeoEdwards

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I have the same issue on my Thermador PRG364GDUS. I am glad an electrical engineer is tackling it. It seems to me, if I have ignition and I do, and I have gas and I do, and it burns for a bit then arbitrarily turns off, it is probably in the circuitry controlling the valve.

It appears the on/off nature of the simmer burners are regulated by the potentiometer assembly which includes circuit boards that go in front of the two simmer valves that connect to a blue box that is directly behind the kick plate at the bottom of the range.

UserPostedImage
BOSCH POTENTIOMETER KIT 497235

If you figure it out, let me know. I love my stove and cook an awful lot.

George
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