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Several days ago my wife mentioned that our range started to make a periodic buzzing noise when the oven was turned on. I investigated and noticed when the oven was set to the bake setting, the top heating element was not coming on at all and the buzzing came when the top heating element would normally be cycling on while the oven was set to bake. Any thoughts on whether this means we need a new heating element or something else?
Everything else works fine, expect the top burners on the left side of the stove top won’t ignite. When you turn the burner to ignite, it makes the clicking sound but no flame will ignite. I’m thinking we need a new igniter on that side as well. Thanks very much for any assistance.
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Originally Posted by: rkoster  Several days ago my wife mentioned that our range started to make a periodic buzzing noise when the oven was turned on. I investigated and noticed when the oven was set to the bake setting, the top heating element was not coming on at all and the buzzing came when the top heating element would normally be cycling on while the oven was set to bake. Any thoughts on whether this means we need a new heating element or something else?
Everything else works fine, expect the top burners on the left side of the stove top won’t ignite. When you turn the burner to ignite, it makes the clicking sound but no flame will ignite. I’m thinking we need a new igniter on that side as well. Thanks very much for any assistance. Koster, I would not expect a damaged/broken heating element to make a buzzing noise( not without sparking and arcing). At this point, I would expect a bad relay or wire on the ERC/Clock. (example only) Part number: AP4397158
You may want to vaerify where the noise is before we go too far, up at the display or actually in the oven. Do you have access to a multimeter, so we can check resistances and voltages ? Thanks, :) :) :)
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Thanks for the response, Joe. The noise seems to be coming from behind the display area as opposed to in the oven. I don't have access to a multimeter, so it would be difficult to check resistances and voltages. Would a bad relay or wire be causing other problems as well? Everything else seems to be working fine except the burner igniter. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by: rkoster Thanks for the response, Joe. The noise seems to be coming from behind the display area as opposed to in the oven. I don't have access to a multimeter, so it would be difficult to check resistances and voltages. Would a bad relay or wire be causing other problems as well? Everything else seems to be working fine except the burner igniter. Thanks. Rkoster, Yes, you're on target now. It's more likely that a defective relay on the ERC/Clock would "buzz" than the element. (especially with your response) Without a meter to test with, you'll need to order the ERC and repalce it. Before you do, supply us with the complete serial number and series number from the production plate on the range, so we can get you the correct part number. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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OK, I went ahead and got a multimeter. Any suggestions for how to check resistance and voltages for the relay or other parts? Thanks.
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Oops, I just replied before your previous response. Anyways, I'd like to check the resistance/voltage before ordering the relay if it's practical. Here's the full serial number: [FONT='Times New Roman']Model #JDS9860AAP, Serial #199234424YEG. Thanks.[/FONT]
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Originally Posted by: rkoster Oops, I just replied before your previous response. Anyways, I'd like to check the resistance/voltage before ordering the relay if it's practical. Here's the full serial number: Model #JDS9860AAP, Serial #199234424YEG. Thanks. Kroster, Great deal, we can get you up and going, First things first, turn the power off to the range at the breaker box. Then remove the oven door, it's easier to work with the oven door off. Broil Element
1. Remove power from unit.
2. Open oven door and remove racks.
3. Remove screws securing broil element to top and rear of oven cavity.
4. Pull broil element forward to allow disconnection of terminals on each element leg. 5. Reverse procedure to reinstall broil element.*** Do not allow the wires attached to the element terminals to fall back into the cabinet. we don't want to have to uninstall the range, or fish around for the wires. ***With the element out, and the wires disconnected from the terminals, check for 13.5 to 14.5(+/- 10%) ohms resistance across the two(2) element terminals.Your element is OK, if you have this reading.Now for the "tricky" part. The voltage checks.Program a broil cycle.Check for 120 VAC from the terminal on the Blue wire to chassis ground. Then, check for 120 VAC from the terminal on the Red wire to chassis ground. Then check for 220 to 240 VAC across the two(2) wire terminals(blue and red). No voltage on the blue wire, would indicate a bad broil relay on the ERC, or broken wire. No voltage on the red wire would indicate a bad double line break relay or damaged red wire( no likely at this point).Control Panel
1. Remove power from unit.
2. Remove burner switch control knobs.
3. Open oven door and remove screws securing control panel.
4. Remove screws located on the right and left sides of the control panel.
5. Grasp control panel on the far left and right sides and gently pull the
control panel out and down. NOTE:
Gently pull control panel out and down.
6. Remove infinite switch control knobs, infinite switches, indicator lights, rocker switches, and electronic control/clock (as necessary) and transfer to the new control panel. 7. Reverse procedure to reinstall control panel.Electronic Control
1. Remove control panel, see “Control Panel” procedure, steps 1 through 5.
2. Remove screws securing electronic control bracket to control panel.
3. Label and disconnect terminal wiring from electronic control. 4. Reverse procedure to reinstall electronic control.Should you need it,Part number: AP4426684
Is the ERC/Clock for your series range.And some information on meter usage, if you need it.http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.htmlThe left side top burners, do they not spark or ignite at all, or do they have a delay type ignition(takes more clicks to ignite than the right side burners). If you removed the"E" grille burner, and installed the top burner accessory kit, this is normal. the left side bay burner orifice(s) are designed to operate the "E" grille burner, and have a different BTU rating because of the "live" flame, so a slower ignition and in a lot of cases a smaller flame appearance is normal. Just make sure the burner cap venturi's (holes) are all clean and not blocked with debris.Good Luck,:) :) :)
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Thanks, Joe. This is very helpful and I hope to be able to get to this later today or tomorrow. I checked the range again last night and it actually worked fine that time, so this issue seems to be periodic and not constant. My wife used the range earlier in the day and thinks she heard the buzzing that time. Does that information change how you would approach troubleshooting and whether it may be a bad ERC/clock or likely to be something else? Thanks again.
Rick
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Originally Posted by: rkoster Thanks, Joe. This is very helpful and I hope to be able to get to this later today or tomorrow. I checked the range again last night and it actually worked fine that time, so this issue seems to be periodic and not constant. My wife used the range earlier in the day and thinks she heard the buzzing that time. Does that information change how you would approach troubleshooting and whether it may be a bad ERC/clock or likely to be something else? Thanks again.
Rick Rick, No, my thoughts and process would not change. I'm leaning closer to a bad ERC/Clock relay problem. :) :) :)
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