Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/21/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
|
dryer will not start for the past few years had trouble starting would beep like going off could move control back and forth or move to another area and would start and run fine. A month ago started making noise after warm found motor to have bad bearing. took motor out and could turn by hand and was noisy. replaced motor and worked fine for 1 month. Now dryer will not work at all removed belt motor does not engage. when turn on and press start switch it makes contact and makes humming type sound. Open door and goes off so door switch and start switch seem to be working fine. checked limit fuse has continuity. check t stat on duct it has continuity. took timer apart cleaned all points and checked continuity seems ok. Any ideas what could be wrong. Household power is fine. gas heat does not come on either but maybe shouldn't until motor starts turning drum. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks dave
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Model KGYE650VAL0Here is a wiring diagram https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203390031.pdfwhen turn on and press start switch it makes contact and makes humming type sound. You may need another motor. Open door and goes off so door switch and start switch seem to be working fine. checked limit fuse has continuity. check t stat on duct it has continuity. took timer apart cleaned all points and checked continuity seems ok. Motor hums so it is getting power. Best to check across it to ensure it is getting 120 volts AC. Could be the start switch/relay contacts are dropping voltage. Unlikely but possible. Any ideas what could be wrong. First did your replacement motor come as an assembly with the centrifugal switch included? If not you may just need a new centrifugal switch. The way it works is: The switch assembly is actually 2 switches. Once the motor gets close to operating speed the switches are tripped mechanically by an assembly on the motor shaft. One switch connects in the Main and Start windings, when the motor is at rest. When it trips it removes the Start winding and you run on the Main winding only. Motor will overheat if Start winding is left connected. Could be this switch is not connecting in the Start winding when at rest, therefore the motor will not start. The other disconnects the heater when at rest. When it trips, it switches in the heaters. This ensures that you have air flow before the heaters come on otherwise the heat would blow the thermal fuse. Household power is fine. How do you know that power is good at the dryer. Did you measure it? This would be a long shot. gas heat does not come on either but maybe shouldn't until motor starts turning drum. See above |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/21/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
|
The motor does not hum just the timer and the start switch. motor was new but was a little different had to rewire a couple of wires per instructions supplied with motor, worked fine for a month or so. Suspect timer but don't know which color wires to check for output voltage. Or to check input voltage at motor
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
When you push the start swith and release it does the humming continue. If not then the start switch/relay is probably shot. It should stay latched till the door is opened or the end of the cycle.
Hard for me to help with test points, as I do not know how well the connections on the timer are marked but using the wiring diagram, it should not be too hard to make all the test in the control console.
Timer connector W to Neutral will be the motor voltage. Neutral is usually a white wire but cannot guarantee this. It should be P on the timer (one side of the timer motor). |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/21/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
|
the start switch is working is staying latched and does show continuity thru it cleaned points well. unlatches when open door. replacement motor has different type start switch had to rewire a little but worked good for a month or so. my timer does not have a connector marked w has 2 black wires that go to timer motor. wiring diag. does not show connectors as mine has. I know all points inside control are making contact as check them with ohm meter when took apart to clean. Does the elec motor (timer motor) have to be good to give electricity to motor? It doesn't seem like it would cause usually turn knob to any on position and motor would run. If I were to buy a control could I return it if it doesn't fix the problem? Already bought a new motor but I know orig was bad. my cntrol has markings rh y re cs rs tm another y and an rl white wire goes to re. motor has 2 reds 1 black and 1 white to starter switch and blue to motor. the wires are marked like 1 m 2 m as are the connectors on the motor and switch.
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close