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DIY GUY  
#1 Posted : Friday, May 27, 2011 4:45:12 PM(UTC)
DIY GUY

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I've been trying to diagnose my Frig for the last three weeks. When I plug it in, the Compressor and fan will run for 45 seconds (I've timed it out) like clockwork....Then shut off. Being that the compressor will run, I've had a repairman replace the starter relay overload. That wasn't it. They initially thought it was the motherboard/brain and we replaced that. Plus the thermostat and the thermister.......Any idea what to check next?
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Saturday, May 28, 2011 2:47:21 AM(UTC)
richappy

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I would measure the voltage to the compressor. If it is still 115 volts when the compressor shuts down, that would confirm a bad compressor.An amprobe would verify the compressor current rise before shutoff.
TNMtnBob  
#3 Posted : Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:11:05 PM(UTC)
TNMtnBob

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Originally Posted by: DIY GUY Go to Quoted Post
I've been trying to diagnose my Frig for the last three weeks. When I plug it in, the Compressor and fan will run for 45 seconds (I've timed it out) like clockwork....Then shut off. Being that the compressor will run, I've had a repairman replace the starter relay overload. That wasn't it. They initially thought it was the motherboard/brain and we replaced that. Plus the thermostat and the thermister.......Any idea what to check next?



Every time it quit, I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in, and the main control board circuit breaker would trip at exactly 45 seconds. If you put your ear as close to the control box as possible, you could hear it. I unplugged the compressor and it still cut out. Not the compressor causing an overload. Unplugged each of the the fans. Unplugged the temperature control board. It sill cut out at exactly 45 seconds everytime I plugged it back in.

I dug out the main control board from underneath. It looked pristine. I unplugged and plugged back in all the connectors on the board a few times, plugged it back in and it's been running for 90 minutes. Remember you're working with low voltage boards in less than ideal environments.

Fixed a front loading washer the same way a month or so ago.

I had a friend years ago who bought, repaired and resold large lots of broken beepers. More than half tested fine after just opening them up and cleaning all the contacts with a stiff brush.

If you don't see any burn marks, it's an even bet that your broken appliance doesn't need that new board, you just need to clean the contacts. When it starts working, put a tiny amount of dielectric grease, silicone spray or even vaseline on all the pins, and that will keep moisture out of those connections so the problem does not return.
richappy  
#4 Posted : Monday, September 16, 2013 1:13:03 AM(UTC)
richappy

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I use non-residue contact cleaner available at Wall Mart, will flush out oil, water and contaminants.
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