Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6
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First off, this forum and the help you guys give is the best! :D
I know my igniter is bad, continuity test failed unless I tap the porcelain, then the insides makes a connection. Bad igniter...
My problem now is I have lost voltage at the igniter connection. It was 119 volts but now its 0. Could i have blown something?
The crazy part... The thermostat voltage reads around 46 volts in the off posistion and 0 volts on.
The continuity shows good only when the switch is turned on. Normal right?
I have looked at the wiring diagram and there are two unlabeled areas.
The red wire from Therm. to Bake Valve shows something in the middle.
The yelllow wire from Therm. to Oven Indicator Light shows something in the middle.
Is there a fuse or link that may be bad?
Many thanks in advance.
C
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6
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Quote:The crazy part... The thermostat voltage reads around 46 volts in the off posistion and 0 volts on. I rechecked and the voltage is 120V at the thermostat (black wire). With the new igniter... Voltage is 120V at the thermostat. Thermostat continuity OK when switch is in "bake" posistion. Voltage 120V at red wire (to igniter) when in "bake" posistion. Igniter check... Red wire from therm. reads 120V when oven in on posistion. Igniter resistance 220 ohms. Result... NO Glow from igniter, frustration, and a late post. :mad: :confused: :) What am I missing?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6
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*****bump***** I now suspect the oven gas valve AP4102418. Is there a test for this? I can get the igniter to glow by bypassing the gas control valve.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6
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Originally Posted by: Big C  *****bump***** I now suspect the oven gas valve AP4102418. Is there a test for this? I can get the igniter to glow by bypassing the gas control valve. Should the gas valve show continuity if its good? (bump, bump)
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Big C,
Sorry for the delay. We probably missed your thread because of multiple replies.
There must be continuity across the gas valve terminals. The gas valve has to be replaced if the circuit is open. The part number for the gas valve you posted is correct.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6
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Thank you Gene!!!
I will order the valve.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6
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Gas valve is in and the oven is cooking!!!
Both igniter and valve were bad.
Super fast shipping time BTW. :) I will be back to the forum and this site in the future.
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