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Freezer does not defrost over time, coils ice up. Seems as if defrost element is not kicking on. I am very handy and comfortable in repairing things, this is NOT my first time.
I have checked for continuity on the heating element wrapped around the cooling coils and it DOES have strong reading. The thermodisc has no continuity reading when hot (as it should) and last time I check it after I had removed the disc, placed it in another freeezer to close the circuit, it DID have continuity (closed) circuit reading. Am I correct that both of these items are OK?
Is there any other device between the lower unit components (heating element and thermo disc) that could give this problem or is it the motherboard that has gone bad.? ALL else in the refrigerator works fine.
I can completely defrost externally with a rotary house fan, close freezer door back and turn unit back on, and within days to a week or two the cooling coils have iced over enough that they are penetrating into the internal freezer cabinet, causing no cool air to make it to the upper compartment, causing its temp to climb to the 50-60 degree level and the freezer temp to climb well above freezing. Freezer comp. not opened that much. Just two occupants of home.
With me testing the heat element and thermo disc, looks like moboard, I do NOT want to purchase mobo if that is not the issue, but I think my efforts thus far have narrowed it down somewhat.
Your help is greatly aprreciated.
Jeff Kirkland
Mt. Pleasant, SC
843-881-0992 (mornings)
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Jeff, You may want to check the evaporator thermistor which controls the defrost cycle. The table with thermistor values is attached to the reply. If there is nothing wrong then the problem most likely is a bad main control board. - The thermistor Part number: AP3185407
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/24/2011(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Jeff, You may want to check the evaporator thermistor which controls the defrost cycle. The table with thermistor values is attached to the reply. If there is nothing wrong then the problem most likely is a bad main control board. - The thermistor Part number: AP3185407
Gene, Do you think that the above could also be caused by the door seal being over compressed over time and letting enough room temp into compartment, BUT if that is the case would not the defrost element still take care of that just run more often. ALSO, if it is the thermistor, has a long wire which runs behind freezer compartment wall. Do I have to replace behind that wall at he connection source, or can that be spliced in short of the original one inside freezer compartment. I was thinking, why ould thermistor which controls temp in fresh food compartment, have anything to do with overall freezer box defrost cycling on/off. Thanks for yor help thus far. Jeff
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: j.kirkland [COLOR=red]...Do you think that the above could also be caused by the door seal being over compressed over time and letting enough room temp into compartment...
...if it is the thermistor, has a long wire which runs behind freezer compartment wall. Do I have to replace behind that wall at he connection source, or can that be spliced in short of the original one inside freezer compartment...
...I was thinking, why ould thermistor which controls temp in fresh food compartment, have anything to do with overall freezer box defrost cycling on/off... Hi Jeff, No, I don't think so. If there is something wrong with the door seal then you should see a frost on the door frame and inside the freezer. You can splice it at any convenient location. Who said anything about the thermistor in the fresh food compartment? The thermistor I mentioned is "evaporator thermistor" and is located on top of the evaporator coils. BTW, all thermistors in the refrigerator are identical. Gene.
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