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The dryer works fine, it goes though all the cycles just fine, it just does not blow warm air. The heating element is not open. Would you have an idea as to what the problem might be?
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Rank: Member
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My Sears dryer, mod: 110-68932792, works fine. It goes though all the cycles except it only blowes cold air. The heating element is not open. Would you have an idea as to what the problem might be?
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Have you checked the power.
The motor etc. run off of 120 volts but the heating coil requires the full 240.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR] |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: denman  Have you checked the power.
The motor etc. run off of 120 volts but the heating coil requires the full 240.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR] Denman Thank you. I borrowed a dryer from my next door neighbor, plugged it in, and it works fine. When I try mine, the same problem persists. Could it be a thermistor or something like that?
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Rank: Member
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denman made a good suggestion as your first step in determing what is wrong. Even though you didn't check the breaker and voltages as he suggested, it sounds like you may have determined the Dryer is getting the correct voltage and power.
When you tried your neighbor's Dryer in your house, did you hook your neighbor's Dryer up to your house's vent system? If no, then you still don't know what the root cause of your problem is. If your house vent system is blocked or severely restricted, that might be the reason your Dryer went out on one of the thermal safety devices.
You wondered if you have a potential thermistor problem, but only Dryers with electronic controls have thermistors. Is your Dryer an electrontic model? If no, than that can't be the issue.
Let me know about the vent situation and I can talk you through how to check your thermal safety devices for proper function.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for 110-68932792 models | AppliancePartsPros.comIf you go to the Sears parts site they have actual parts breakdowns which may be helpful. See the attachment for the wiring diagram. Next to check would be the thermal cut-off and the hi-limit thermostat. Both should be 0 ohms. They are mounted on the element housing. If the thermal cut-off is blown get back to us as there are other thigs you should check before replacing it. I believe that the heater relay and the motor relay are the same but double check this just to be sure. Unplug the unit and swap the relays, now if the unit will not start you know that the heater relay was shot. Here is a good site with info on Even Heat Boards (see Item 40). I am not sure if the info will all apply but it should be close to your unit. http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.htmlIf you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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