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rjblumii  
#1 Posted : Saturday, April 30, 2011 4:45:30 PM(UTC)
rjblumii

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It looks like a lot of folks have success here so I'm hoping for the same. I did a search for my model number on the site but didn't get any hits. I have an almost 6 year old Frigidaire Oven model PLEFM399DCB and the bake and broil elements suddenly stopped heating. The oven control still allows me to select "bake" and set a temperature....and it appears to attempt to pre heat, but the element does not get warm. I pulled the back off to access the controls and take some voltage measurements. I think I've isolated the issue to the EOC. When I command either Bake or Broil, I get a voltage reading of a little over 120vac from the L1 side of both elements with respect to Neutral. L2 voltage is present at the Input terminal of the EOC, but not at the L2 Output terminal. There must be a relay or something that's not working properly to transfer L2 Input voltage to L2 Output when the EOC is set to Bake. Does this sound about right?

Thanks!
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rjblumii  
#2 Posted : Saturday, April 30, 2011 6:38:53 PM(UTC)
rjblumii

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After removing the EOC and spreading the two boards apart, I could see a burned area around one of the pins on the little Omron relay controlling the L2 voltage. I removed the relay from the board via a soldering pencil and solder sucker. Once on the bench, I connected a 9V battery in series with two AA 1.5v batteries to get the 12V necessary to test the relay. The relay tested fine. I cleaned up the board and made a small washer from a stacon terminal to create the necessary surface area to bridge the compromised area on the board. I reinstalled and resoldered the relay. Everything now works perfectly. Cost of repair: 2 hours of my time.
PKup10  
#3 Posted : Saturday, June 4, 2011 6:18:09 PM(UTC)
PKup10

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I have the same fridge and the same problem. I am kind of handy, but I've never delved into this kind of repair. I'm not sure what the EOC is. I wanted to remove it and see if I had the same defect. I think this is a very similar problem to this site, Frigidaire Prfessional Series Oven - Self Help Forums, but my circuit boards aren't green.

Thanks forvany help.
rjblumii  
#4 Posted : Sunday, June 5, 2011 6:27:59 AM(UTC)
rjblumii

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I'm not a pro...just handy like yourself. As I recall from the forums, EOC stands for Electronic Operator Console. It's the entire assembly of electronics which make up the display and operator touch pad you use to control appliance functions. On my range, when you remove the assembly from the appliance, I seem to recall it was two printed circuit boards stacked on top of one another....but attached on one of the long edges by a series of stiff elecrical wires. Gently spreading the two boards apart provides access to the backside of the relay in question. Basically if you can veryify through voltage checks that your symptoms are identical, then it's probably worth removing the EOC assembly and inspecting it for any obvious signs of distress. Hope this helps.
PKup10  
#5 Posted : Sunday, June 5, 2011 10:13:55 AM(UTC)
PKup10

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So, you used a multimeter and just checked each spot. What did you use as the neutral?
rjblumii  
#6 Posted : Monday, June 6, 2011 5:04:41 AM(UTC)
rjblumii

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Yes, just used a multimeter to verify voltages. Start with the terminals where the range cord attaches to verify you show approximately 240VAC across the two hot legs and approximately 120VAC from each hot to neutral. You can use this same neutral landing point as a reference for any other voltage checks.
octothorpe  
#7 Posted : Monday, October 15, 2012 9:55:41 AM(UTC)
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ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/Pr...ingfield/316441475en.pdf

I have a Frigidaire Professional oven, made by Electrolux. Model PLEFM399DCD. Turning on the broil yesterday, I heard a "pfffft". Now the broil and bake elements do not heat. Everything else works fine. No errors on the control display. Using the posts on this forum, especially from user 'rjblumii' (Thanks!) and the service document from the link above, I found that one pin of the L2 switching relay vaporized its solder joint on the control board. The only thing this relay does is switch the second hot leg for these two elements. I cleaned it up, then soldered a thick jumper from the burned relay leg to the pins for the spade connector. Works fine. No need to buy a new control board if you can solder.
File Attachment(s):
316441475en.pdf (705kb) downloaded 68 time(s).
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