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Hi, I have a KithchenAid KSCS25FKSS00 side by side refrigerator. The lower freezer area was cold, but the upper freezer and refrigerator sections were warm, so I investigated.
The compressor runs fine (pretty much constantly now) and the evaporator coils frost over. Occassionally it seems to go into a defrost cycle and melt the ice.
I checked the voltage to the evaporator fan.
- Yellow to White was 3 volts (should be 5-17v I read somewhere)
- Red to White was 12 volts (which it should be)
I figured my $8 test tool was just off a little, so I was about to replace the fan, but before doing so, I ran a little test.
I pulled the evaporator fan from the freezer and using a 9 volt battery put 9v accross the yellow and white as well as the red and white terminals and the fan started to spin immediately.
So now I believe that the fan is fine, and something is wrong with the voltages coming in on the harness. Possibly the 3v input is too low or maybe something else?
What would cause the input voltage to be low (3v vs. 5-17v) and the evaporator motor to never turn on? Everything else seems to be ok.
If there are multiple possible causes, how would I test to confirm which component has failed?
Additonal info:
I found a guide on running the Electronic Control Tests from the key pad in the fridge.
Step 03 result was a red light indicating "Evaporator Fan Moter ON / Improper Speed"
Step 05 was also red indicating "VC Compressor OFF, waiting for min off delay" - which makes sense, since the compressor had been running just before I started the test.
The 5 other tests were all green (Freezer thermistor, frige thermistor, condensor fan motor on, air door opens & closes, and Heater energized/bimetal closed)
Thanks!
John
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
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I solved the problem myself & here's the final resolution in case it may help someone else:
- I was correct that the evaporator fan was good (as my battery test had indicated).
- The microcptr had failed and was not sending a high enough voltage signal to the fan for it to start up. I replaced the orginal board #2221536 with the new board #4389211 and the fan operated correctly and my freezer/fridge are cool once again. The part was a little pricey ($217 + shipping) and hard to find, but it worked.
As an aside I had a very disappointing experience with Sears appliance repair. The short story is that when I thought the fan was good, and wasn't certain what was causing the problem, I called Sears. They came quickly (late the same day), diagnosed the problem, and told me it would take a week for them to get the part in and get back to install it. I said I'd do it myself the next morning and paid them $75+tax for the diagnosis. I then bought the $107+tax fan that they told me would fix the problem; it didn't. I called them and asked them to come back, which they did. But they then told me that they would not do further work since I had worked on the appliance and left.
After fixing the appliance, I called Sears, explained the situation, and asked for my $79.50 to be cerdited back since they had not olny misdiagnosed the problem, but it cost me an additional $118 for the wrong part. They declined to refund my money, I escalated, they declined again.
Needless to say Sears will remain on my naughty list for many many years to come.
Cheers,
John
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/31/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1
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I tried to get the same part at my local app parts place and they said the part was discontinued. That I needed to get it rebuilt somewhere, but they gave me no leads....? Thanks. Originally Posted by: jsteely  I solved the problem myself & here's the final resolution in case it may help someone else:
- I was correct that the evaporator fan was good (as my battery test had indicated).
- The microcptr had failed and was not sending a high enough voltage signal to the fan for it to start up. I replaced the orginal board #2221536 with the new board #4389211 and the fan operated correctly and my freezer/fridge are cool once again. The part was a little pricey ($217 + shipping) and hard to find, but it worked.
As an aside I had a very disappointing experience with Sears appliance repair. The short story is that when I thought the fan was good, and wasn't certain what was causing the problem, I called Sears. They came quickly (late the same day), diagnosed the problem, and told me it would take a week for them to get the part in and get back to install it. I said I'd do it myself the next morning and paid them $75+tax for the diagnosis. I then bought the $107+tax fan that they told me would fix the problem; it didn't. I called them and asked them to come back, which they did. But they then told me that they would not do further work since I had worked on the appliance and left.
After fixing the appliance, I called Sears, explained the situation, and asked for my $79.50 to be cerdited back since they had not olny misdiagnosed the problem, but it cost me an additional $118 for the wrong part. They declined to refund my money, I escalated, they declined again.
Needless to say Sears will remain on my naughty list for many many years to come.
Cheers,
John
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1
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Hi John,
I just registered to post a 'thank-you' to you. I found this thread after my (exact) same model of fridge exhibited the same symptoms. Unlike you, I went ahead and replaced the evaporator motor - assuming the fridge lasts years, I'm ok with this mistake.
The part was incredibly hard to find - actually your posted source was able to get me another "last one". They shipped it overnight to Vancouver - it was expensive, but I like this fridge, and it's a fraction of the cost of replacement - the next option should one be unable to find this board.
Anyhow, thank you for leading me quickly to the answer I needed. The time you took to explain your situation and the steps you took were so helpful to me and likely many others. This is what makes the internet great.
Best Regards,
Nate
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/17/2013(UTC)
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Thank you very much for your posts - I had the same problem! I found a great electronic board repair shop in Austin, Texas - Fix Your Board (see web site) . They were able to repair my control board, Whirlpool 2221536, in one day! They were GREAT to work with! I also found a PDF that walks you through this refrigerator: https://secured.whirlpoo...798567e85256b580067aa82/$FILE/8178066A.pdf Sears has a web site that has all the parts diagrams for this refrigerator. Thanks again... Jeff
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/2/2013(UTC)
Posts: 12
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I have questions on the original post: " I pulled the evaporator fan from the freezer and using a 9 volt battery put 9v across the yellow and white as well as the red and white terminals and the fan started to spin immediately. " How did you do this exactly: put the battery's positive to the white and battery's negative to the yellow AND red? I also have the following two failed tests: " Step 03 result was a red light indicating "Evaporator Fan Moter ON / Improper Speed" Step 05 was also red indicating "VC Compressor OFF, waiting for min off delay" - which makes sense, since the compressor had been running just before I started the test. "
Why do you say that Step 05 makes sense indicating it is not a problem?
Also my step 07 turns red initially and then immediately turns green.
I have also additional questions:
IF the voltage to the evaporator fan motor has the correct voltage:
the white to red is 12v, and the white to yellow is 8v, and the
fan does not turn, this means with 100% assurance that the fan is
bad?
And is that possible to use a multimeter to determine if the fan is
good or bad: what ohms need to be for what wires? Is there a diode
inside the motor? Why there are 4 wires, is there a wiring diagram for
the motor?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Hello, the long story short is that the evaporator fan is okay. The mother board is bad. You need to send it to fixmyboard.com! If you wish to call me you can. My # is 210.913.1142
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/2/2013(UTC)
Posts: 12
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To answer my own questions.
(1) How to test the fan. Connect a 9v battery positive to
red wire as well as the yellow wire, and connect the battery
negative to the white wire, the fan should run.
(2) Why step 05 was also red indicating "VC Compressor OFF,
waiting for min off delay"? You need to wait for 7 minutes
then the compressor will be turned on, and then the light will
turn green.
Also you need to measure the voltages to the fan while the fan
is connected (by using an extension wires and cut the skin of
the extension wires). In my case, the voltages are correct while
disconnected from the evaporator fan motor, but the voltage dropped
when connected. The problem is fixed by replacing the main
electronic control board.
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