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Hello there,
My wife tried to run the dryer and it would not start. I spent all day yesterday troubleshooting by reading posts and watching videos online. Below is what I have tested with no problems presenting themselves.
Connections: All tight
Electricity/voltage at terminal block: tested 120 and 240 lines, looked good.
Push to start relay: Tested ohms with volt meter on locations directed (taking one wire off) and tested other terminals while pushing button in, also by-passed the relay with wire jumper into both blue lines, no luck, dryer still did not start.
Door switch: Lifted up top, undid the connector and tested with door closed (zero ohms) door open (reading of 1)
Thermal fuse: Tested with ohms, removed one wire from terminal, tested at 0 ohms. Bypassed, hooking the two leads together, still no start.
Timer: Tested with ohms at BK and R (with BK removed), tested 0 ohms
Belt: Took the front apart to see if belt was off, it was on and had tension
Motor: Took out barrel and inspected motor, looked good, by passed with homemade power cord and plugged in the dryer, the motor fired right up and ran.
I have put it all back together and tested everything again today, to be sure I did not miss anything. All my tests from yesterday have been verified...
My wife is telling me the starter button does not feel the same as it did. Because I have tested everything, I guess I will start ordering parts starting with the starter relay?? Is there another fuse somewhere??? I don't know what else to do!?!?!?!?!?!?! Grrrrrr.
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I could not find info on a LH0 so the following is for a LG0. Here are the parts. Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN2000LG0 RESIDENTIAL DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the wiring diagram. Only problem I can see with your testing is the timer test. BK/R is for the heating coil. Test the BK/BU contacts for the motor. Also check Timer Switch 4 T/W contacts are closed. Note: they depend on the settings you are using. You could attach one meter lead to L1 at the line cord and leave it there, then work your way back through the circuit till you find the open component. If you need help reading the diagram just holler. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  I could not find info on a LH0 so the following is for a LG0. Here are the parts. Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN2000LG0 RESIDENTIAL DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the wiring diagram. Only problem I can see with your testing is the timer test. BK/R is for the heating coil. Test the BK/BU contacts for the motor.Also check Timer Switch 4 T/W contacts are closed. Note: they depend on the settings you are using. You could attach one meter lead to L1 at the line cord and leave it there, then work your way back through the circuit till you find the open component. If you need help reading the diagram just holler. help.. Only problem I can see with your testing is the timer test. BK/R is for the heating coil. Test the BK/BU contacts for the motor. Ok just re-tetsted, BK/BU is showing 0 ohms.. Also check Timer Switch 4 T/W contacts are closed. Note: they depend on the settings you are using. Settings are on timed drying @60 mins and T/W showed closed.You could attach one meter lead to L1 at the line cord and leave it there, then work your way back through the circuit till you find the open component. Well, with the lead at L1 (black line cord) the following occured: Push to start relay: closed (all terminals) Thermal fuse: both closed Timer: BU BK R are all open, BB W closed, V=3600 ohms T =2400 and WB=2400 ohms. Does this mean the timer is bad since BK BU and R are open? Am I doing this right? Not sure how to read the schematics. Thank you for responding.! If you need help reading the diagram just holler. help..
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We may have a measuring problem as BU/BK looks closed in one test and open in another. Unplug the unit and set the timer to a mid cycle timed dry with the door closed. Set your meter to a low scale (200 ohms) Tape one lead of the meter to L1 on the line cord and leave it there. This lets you not only check the components but also the wiring. Now measure to BK on the timer, should be 0 ohms. Disconnect wires to BU and measure at BU there should be 0 ohms. Reconnect the BU wires. Measure at the BLUE on the start relay. Should be infinite ohms. Push the start switch and it should drop to 0 ohms. Rather than have to mess with the main inside of the unit. Measure at the Timer switch 4 White wire. It should be infinite ohms. Push the start button and it should drop to a couple ohms. This shows that the thermal fse and the motor windings are OK. Disconnect the wires going to T at the Timer Switch 4. Measure to T, again it should drop to a couple ohms when the start button is pressed. Reconnect the wires. Measure to the Neutral on the line cord, again it should drop when the start button is pressed. If you want you could use the Neutral as the common connection for your meter and just work your way back through the circuit that way. Here is your circuit path. L1 Line - BK/BU timer contacts - Push To Start Relay contacts - Thermal Fuse - Start and Main motor windings - Timer Switch 4 W/T contacts - Door Switch - Neutral See the attachment. denman attached the following image(s): |
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Let me start by saying, thank you for your time and effort in this. Much appreciated.!!!
Okay, followed your directions explicitly. (First paragraph at least…lol..)
BK on the timer: 0 ohms
Disconnect wire test BU: 0 ohms
Reconnected BU measured blue on starter relay: showed 1. Push start switch- 0 ohms
Timer switch 4 white wire: Reading 3.5 drops to 0 (when button pushed in.) - I verified this several different times, it showed the same readings.
Disconnect wire going to T at switch 4: 2.4 ohms with or without the push to start button engaged.
Neutral on line cord: 1.8 ohms down to .9 with start button engaged.
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I am still not sure what is bad here, maybe timer and thermal fuse? Both the items in red are not functioning like you say is proper.:eek: :confused: I don't think the motor windings are bad, I had the motor running, it sounded great.
Your thoughts?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I would say that your timer is gone.
If it was OK then you should get the same readings at W and T on Timer Switch 4. |
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Okay, I will order, install and give feedback... Thanks again for your time.
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Rank: Member
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Ordered the part, received, installed, works great!!!!
Thanks again for your help!!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You are welcome.
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause. |
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