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Recently posted an issue on here and got some good help, but either our problem has compounded or it was worse than we thought. In this thread ( http://forum.appliancepartspros...-heating.html#post400281) I outlined the issue, but basically the dryer was working just not heating. After taking everything apart, finding the culprit wire, getting a matching 10-gauge wire to reconnect to the spade on the heating element, I reassembled everything, only to find that now the tumbler would not spin. I have a feeling it's because of something I did in disassembly or reassembly. So I took it apart again, and my wife offered to be another set of eyes and put it back together. She did, and this time the tumbler spun very slowly, but still no heat. I'm 98% certain that the pulley is routed correctly, but if someone feels this is an issue I'll check *that* again. The good news is that I'm a pro at taking this machine apart now. The bad thing is our dirty laundry is multiplying. Any help or tips would be appreciated.
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Bumping to see if anyone has any suggestions OTHER than me just ordering the heating element and installing it.
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Could well be there is nothing wrong with your heating element.
Unless you have visually confirmed that the heating coil is broken or have measured it with a meter, I would not order a heater.
Try turning the drum by hand in the correct direction.
It should turn fairly easily. You may want to try this on a couple other units to get a feel for it.
Sounds like you may still have an assembly problem.
If you messed something up the first time then odds are you would do the same thing again especially with the wife doing some supervising.
There are 2 centrifugal switches on the motor.
They are activated when the motor gets close to operating speed.
One of them is for the heating element, this ensures that it does not come on until there is air flow.
So if the motor is slow it may not be closing and that is the reason you do not have heat. |
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OK - how would I check if these switches were to blame?
I've moved the dryer into a larger room and pulled it apart again ... got the heating element out and cannot find any continuity issues there, either. Where else could I look?
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You could try actuating them manually.
But the only 100% way to check them is a live test.
Visually check the centrifugal mechanism in the motor, perhaps it is not operating correctly.
Did you find any reason for the motor running slow? |
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Actually my wife said that the motor/pulley got back up to normal speed when she did another dry run.
Yesterday I pulled off the console/facia as I was going to test every electrical connection that existed for continuity.
There was a full schematic taped inside the console (from manufacturing), and I studied this for a bit.
It was then that I realized that the cycling thermostat and thermostat heater are both on the same piece - affixed to the blower motor cover.
There are 4 spades:
- the cycling thermostat spades are on the left and right (purple wire on one end and blue on the other)
- the thermostat heater spades are on top and bottom of the piece (feeding the red and white wires)
I am using an analog meter. The cycling thermostat reads 0 for full continuity, but the thermostat heater is showing 8 (Ω x 1K setting). I think before - not fully understanding that this one piece actually hosted two separate connections - I just tested the left/right spades and not the top/bottom.
I am guessing that the thermostat heater should NOT show a resistance of 8KΩ and that this very well could be the culprit
Could I be right?
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]I am guessing that the thermostat heater should NOT show a resistance of 8KΩ and that this very well could be the culprit[/COLOR] No, that reading looks OK to me. An 8,000 ohm resistance will be a 1.8 watt heater (approximately). Not sure you know how it works so just in case. In lower heat settings the thermostat heater is turned on by the heat setting switch. It adds heat to the thermostat causing it to cycle more often resulting in a lower heat output from the unit. I did some more hunting for you and came up with the following manual perhaps it will be helpful. 16026315 Maytag Amana Dryer Repair Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.comYou have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer. |
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Shoot ... well I have tested everything I can find. I already have the manual (thank you, by the way) from a link in an earlier thread.
I thought I was finally onto something with the thermostat heater. I feel like I'm back to square 1 (UGH!).
Every piece I can get out of the appliance tests closed for continuity, but yet there is no heat from the dryer.
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OK to recap
You have checked that there is 240 volts, the heating coil, all thermostats and fuses and the timer contacts.
Now unplug the unit and take the two heavier wires (Blue and Black according to the wiring diagram) off the centrifugal switch and short them together. Tape them so they cannot short to anything or get caught in the motor.
Also tape the door switch closed.
Now be very, very careful as this is a live test.
You do not have to put the drum back in. Just make sure that if the heater comes on you shut the unit off right away as there will not be any air flow over it and you could blow the thermal cut-off.
Now plug it in and give it a try.
If it fires up with heat you know that the centrifugal switch is the problem. |
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OOPS Forgot one item in the recap and that is the temperature selector switch.
L1 to C should be closed on all 3 heat settings. |
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