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Joined: 4/9/2011(UTC)
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I have the bosch shx55m bought at sears a couple years ago. Just noticed dishes not clean and some soap left in holder. We use cascade powder. I cleaned the filters, pulled the arms and cleaned real good, checked the tube connected to the pump that sends water to the upper for any debris but it looked clean.
Upon running with door open, tank fills proper ( I have even added 1/2 gal and 1 gal of water to tank as a test) but water is no hotter than tap even after 1st and second drain and fill during the cycle. Also noticed that bottom arm will spin but when it comes time for upper arm to spin, it gets lots of water but just not enough to induce a spin. If I help it, it will try but cant keep it going. It will run through the cycle fine but I cant say if it longer than normal. At cycle end, dishes are warm but not as hot as the were when all was well.
I pulled the control board out of the door looking for bad solder but the one in this model has all surface mount devices on it, one large chip but no relays and only two wire connectors going to it. It looked good though.
Any ideas on what I need to do?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Are there any models close to this one that a repair manual can be used?
What controls the heating element? Is there another board in a different area of the machine?
What would be the reason the top arm would not spin? Is that and the no heat tied together or is there two unrelated failures?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Having to wash dishes by hand. I mis the dishwasher. Is there no one that might have a clue as to what has happened to it? How about an online service manual that would cover this model?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
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still washing by hand. Any thoughts?:confused:
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Ohm meter check on heating element shows 12 ohms. Does that look ok?
There seems to be two components that connect direct to the element that might interrupt the circut. One looks ike a micro switch. Only has two wires. One in and one out directly to the heat element. It is open in the non powered non water state.
Another device connected to the pump has 4 wires. One set, two wires, small orange connected to the relay board in the lower part of the machine. The other set of two wires are red, large, one of the wires goes direct to heat element, other large red goes to the relay board as well but is paired with a gray with black stripe same size wire on the same molex connector.
Advice?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7
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looks like 12 ohm is right for heater. Micro switch works as well. Another item in the circuit is the high limit fuse an it shows good. The sanitation thermister on the unit shows about 50 ohm which is what it should show in an at room temp state.
Everything points to the control bd in the bottom that contains the relays. I unsoldered the heater relay and looked the stats up on the net. I set up a test jig, applied 9 volts dc to the coil and the relay closed and gave a proper continuity reading. So if I conclude proerly, the problem is still with the control/relay bd, but it is not the heater relay at fault.
Any ideas that I need to look into?
Anyone??
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