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how to reach circulation pump for impeller replacement
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Joined: 12/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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For a Bosch SHU66C02UC /14, I am fairly sure I need a Circulation pump repair kit, PN AP2802376. There is limited circulation flow from the arms, although not enough to rotate them, so I believe that the motor works, and assume the impeller has failed. I need instruction on how to reach the circulation pump. I will order when I have those instructions. I have the dishwasher out and upside down, and do not know how to remove the base to reach the circulation pump. Please advise me where I may find basic disassembly instructions or what I need to do to reach the circulation pump. Thanks,-mike
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Joined: 8/24/2008(UTC) Posts: 10
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There was a recent post from tmueller1212 on replacing the heater element, where someone posted these disassembly instructions to get to the heater. It appears it also gets you into the recirc pump in the photos. FYI - I think I am having a very similar problem to yours, except no water seems to be circulating, even though it does fill and drain, and I can hear the pump running.
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Thanks, these look like exactly the instructions I need. If I learn anything that might help others when I disassemble it, I'll post here.
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Joined: 8/24/2008(UTC) Posts: 10
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Let me know if you run into any problems. I replaced my pump impeller today, and the dishwasher works again.
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Joined: 12/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by: justkoz  Let me know if you run into any problems. I replaced my pump impeller today, and the dishwasher works again. Mine works again also. I ordered both the impeller with motor, complete, and just the impeller, with the intention of returning the unneeded parts per AppliancePartsPro policy. It only needed the impeller, which had separated the blade part from the backing plate that attaches to the motor. I was unable to pull the backing plate off the motor shaft even after making up an impact puller with fingers to reach through the holes in the plate, so used the assembly with motor. How did you pull the impeller? I believe it would have been possible to re-bond the blade part to the backing plate with epoxy, but not wanting to have that fail and re-do the disassembly, I just replaced the motor / impeller assembly. For the information of others, the instructions missed saying to remove the two screws and white plastic retainers inside the tank that hold the sump up. Also the instructions say something like raise the right side of the tank. I finally got that means tip the machine so the right side is higher to help drain the sump (I think that was the purpose.). Hope that helps.
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Joined: 8/24/2008(UTC) Posts: 10
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The impeller actually is screwed onto the motor shaft (I noticed the threads deep down in the new impeller and the slight hex head on the impeller shaft). I was concerned about how to keep the motor from turning while trying to unscrew the impeller, so I used an electric impact wrench to unscrew it and also to install the new one. There was a rubber seal underneath the impeller that I could not remove without destroying it, but fortunately the kit came with a new seal.
I also had trouble with the "raise the right side" instruction, but figured the same as you since water did come out when I lifted the right side.
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Joined: 5/31/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Well, I am half way thru. My motor seized up. It was a pain getting it out! You have to take off the entire plastic tub bottom. That means taking 4 screws off the front and 2 screws off the back, remove the 2 screws with plastic hold down blocks on inside of washer so sump opens, disconnecting the fresh water inlet, pulling out the waste water outlet flex hose from the sump, taking the service entrance electrical wires out, laying it on its back, crack the tub open at the front, reach in and unconnect the wires at the three plugs, pull the three spade connect wires off the motor.
You then take the two screws holding the heater module to the sump, which allow you to wiggle the circulation pump out of the two water pipe connections.
The pump housing face rotates off. Then you are looking at the impeller. It is plastic, and screwed onto the metal motor shaft. Mine was stuck, and I think the motor shaft rotated inside of it and meleted the plastic. Needless to say, I was not able to screw it off. I was able to pry off the impeller vanes, and get to the back side of the rotating impeller. I took a dremel tool and cut thru the impeller back, around a 1/2 inch radius. Do not cut deep, as you need to save the bigger plastic backer plate. Then I was able to grab the whole impeller with some pliers, wedge a screwdriver in the back side of the motor so it would not spin, and screw off what was left of the impeller.
The rubber seals leaked, to the bearing on the motor was seized. I was able to clean it, and re oil it. It now spins, but makes some noise. I bought the impeller repair kit online, but found a good deal on the motor which I am waiting for to arrive.
Will let you know how it all goes back together.
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Joined: 5/31/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Well, not done yet. Still inching my way up there.
Other lessons learned.
The white plastic pulleys kept falling off when I was reinstalling the big plastic base. Used a rubber band to hold each in place
When reassembling, you need to put the sump back into the stainless box FIRST, and hold down with the two plastic dogs from the inside of the box. THEN you can try to get the plastic base back on to align with the 4 front screw holes, and 2 back screw holes. If it ain't going, most likely the two round rubber feet under the circulation motor are not exactly ligned up with the two holes in the big plastic base. Take a screwdriver and nudge them into place, and the base can slide on then. Same with the big rubber donut in the middle under the sump, you have to jiggle it to get it all to slide on.
Pay ATTENTION when you take the ropes off of the base springs (the springs that hold the door from flopping down). They come out easily, and go back easily IF you remember how they come out. Otherwise, it is a madening puzzle getting the little while plastic end on the rope to fit onto the spring! Practice taking off/putting on a couple of times before you take them off for the full repair, otherwise you may not remember how to get them back on (my wife saved me).
When I got it all back together, I had a major leak underneath. Had to take it all apart again and find it. Where the heater housing attaches to the sump bottom is where my leak was. There are two pipes with rubber o rings that sit in the two wells of the sump. I screwed up the fitting somehow. there are 3 things holding the heater onto the sump, one screw near the middle of the sump, one screw further down, and one plastic catch. Wiggle it all around, wiggle the circ pump fittings around, make sure everything is all lined up well, and THEN screw in the two screws and set the plastic catch. Just a little off and it pours out water.
Get some white medical tape and label the motor wire connections, label them 1,2,3 just like on the circ motor housing, so you get them back on correctly. You do not want to hook the black wire up to the wrong terminal!
I found that to do the whole circ pump r&r I did not have to unconnect the inlet water valve. I did have to unplug the 3 plugs that attach to the big plastic bottom, but did not have to remove the mating connectors from the big plastic base. You can not completely remove the big plastic base without doing the above, but your do not have to. You only have to crack it open at the front by around 10" to get the circ pump motor in and out. It is best to do the R&R with the dishwasher sitting on its back.
I could not get the whole fully assembled motor/plastic circ pump. I had to buy the circ pump repair kit, and then figured out after taking it all apart that the bearing at the front of the motor was seized. Found one on fleabay cheap. It all went together fine UNTIL the very end. Could not get the plastic pump housing to snap back into the motor metal retainer slots. Pushed and pushed, just would not go! I Finally put the whoe thing in a vice and pushed the back side of motor and plastic pipe opening in the housing. A little pressure and the plastic housing finally slid by something to get the o ring to seat properly. Then a twist of the housing and it locked into place.
It is sitting now with some water in the sump to make sure it is not leaking anymore before I finish the final assembly.
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Joined: 5/31/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Well, alls well that ends well. It is working now, no leaks. A bit of a pain in the butt though.
About the only thing I could not figure out is how to replace the lower door seal. I have the rubber replacement part, but could not figure out how to just slip it in without completely taking the door off and apart. I used some rubber cement to fix the small holes in the existing one and left it as it is. Maybe in a few months if I get psyched again!
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how to reach circulation pump for impeller replacement
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