Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Here is the board Part number: AP3176836
Click on the picture for more info. [COLOR="DarkRed"]Unless there is another factor at play here?[/COLOR] That is the big question, they just do not tell us exactly what the board is doing internally and what they are monitoring to turn the fan on. I would remove the control board from the unit and check it visually to see if any thing looks bad. Look for cold solder joints often they are a duller gray and/or have pin holes. Also wiggle the components while watching the solder side of the board to see if the component's leg moves in the solder. A magnifying glass comes in handy here. I cannot think of anything else to check as you have done a thorough job checking everything. I wish I could get a schematic of this board so we could try fixing it but they just do not publish that info. I am going to put this thread in the Tech section with luck someone else will have some fresh ideas as I am tapped out. |
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/6/2011(UTC) Posts: 7
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Thought I would share my plan... Did some more lead following and circuit testing and finally feel comfortable that I need a new bimetal, becauase the operationis surrounding the defrost seem to be functioning properly now.. (I may have not had the ground terminal on the Fluke position deep enough in the neutral lead on the board?) Everything about the board seems fine after inspection with the exception of it not sending the variable 5-17 VDC to the EVAP fan to control speed (turn on).. Easy to point the finger at the board, but there are 4 wires that leave the fan.. Red is 12 Volt constant, yellow is variable 5-17, white is neutral, and blue is a feedback wire... I am placing my hopes in fan failure.. Not the actually function of the fan windings, but the feedback function.. I purchase your Fan Kit with the bimetal, I needed anyway... Hoping a new fan will send a proper signal to the board, thus returning the 5-17 VDC.. If this turns out not to fix the problem I found a place in TX that will rebuild the board, guaranteed, for $115... I called Kitchenaid and they confirmed the board can not be obtained any longer.. I will update you on the results.. Thanks for all the help...
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