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My dryer won't heat up. I have replaced several parts already, heater element, high temp thermostat located on the heater element, moisture sensor, and have checked the thermal fuse also located on the heater element for continuity and it was fine. Also did check the circuit breaker in case it was 2 breakers and one was tripped, but it was fine. What else could cause this, another fuse, timer, switch? and is there a way to verify the part is defective before i throw away another $100.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDE8600AYQ DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.comI would check the power first, it is not unheard of for a breaker to go bad, just looking at the breaker is not good enough. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! |
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Power checks out both at the plug and in the control panel. My next guess may be the timer. Is there a way to test this with a voltmeter to know if it is bad?
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Here is a service manual 16023110 Maytag Sloped Front Dryer Repair Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.comYou will have to join the site to download the manual but it is well worth it. This is a great site for the appliance DIYer. See Page 10-22 The following only applies if the unit will not turn on. You only mentioned checking one thermal fuse, you have to check both. The second one is on the blower (Item 10 in Section 7 of the parts) The most common cause for this one blowing is a malfunctioning or plugged vent system. The hi-limit is in the heater circuit so I would check that. Also the cycling thermostat contacts. Then the temperature switch. You could unplug the unit and set it to mid scale on a timed dry cycle. By the look of it timer contacts 3 should be closed. Note: Be sure to disconnect at least one side of any part you are measuring for resistance. This ensures you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. |
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Ok, so i set the timer switch in the middle of a timed cycle, unplugged circuit 3, which is the black and red wires on the top of the switch, and checked for continuity. The circuit did not show continuity. I then rotated the switch all the way around and never was able to get continuity. Does this indicate the timer is defective?
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Yes I would say that the timer is toast. |
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