My 8 year old Top Freezer GE Profile Fridge PT122SFMARBS) has been acting erratically since early January. Initially, the freezer started warming. I shut it down, let it reset. Evaporator Fan sounded hollow. I shut it down, I let ti thaw, andaalso cleaned the "never clean" coils and the freezer came back alive. I watched the evaporator coils frost back up. Worked fine for about 3 weeks. Initially, the fan stayed on for almost 24 hours, and then it settled down to normal function at 5 degrees. Yet, the Evap Fan still sounded hollow.

Last week, the Evap fan started to kick on and off for only 2 minutes, and the tfreezer emp began to rise to 27, We (again) emptied the freezer about halfway, and in normalized to about 22 degree, but the evap fan cycling is continuing for only 2 minutes on and shuts off. Seems like it wants to cool,m but is not being permitted to do so. It also seems to work better with a half full freezer

Does it sound like the Evaporator fan motor, the thermostat, or the Defrost timer. Does this older unit even have a mother board?

Please, any help is appreciated. I am pretty handy, but just need guidence. My wife is also going to shoot me if we have to empty the freezer again. (We also had a nice and relaible service tech in. He opened the freezer, looked at everything looked at, reset the defroster,and then said lets see what happens over the next few days. (He didn't even inquire, check the speak about or check the bottom coils. Cleaning them was my idea, and seemed to initially bring the cooling back.

So please, I appreciate any guidence. Many thanks.

Thanks so much Denman.

Since I induced a defrost cycle last night through the timer switch (went to almost 58 degrees), the freezer is now hugging 21 degrees. However, the fan motor is still only kicking on for only several minutes and then turning off.

As the fan motor is still making a hollow sounding noise, does it pay to just pick up a new fan motor, and also a thermostat and replace them both. (Am not trying to waste money, or just throw parts at it, but I am trying to get this fixed without multiple dissassemblies, and before my wife throws me and the fridge out. Obviously, I should probably should pull out my multi meter and test the fan motor.)

How about the thermostat. Is it the same continuity test? Thanks.

DenmanThanks again.

The sound of the fan motor alone leads me to beleive that there is definately soemthing wrong there. Its is a pricey part... but I'm gonna bite the bullet. FYI - the defrost was done with the cover on. Am going to run continuity tonight.

Again, my gratitude

Hfactor

Give it some more time.
Being empty it will take additional time to cool all the way down.

10 to 15 is too warm so your fresh food side will also be warmer.
It should get down to 0 to 5 degrees F.

If it is still running then it is at least trying to get to the lower temperature.
I suspect that it is OK as you said your coils got a nice even coating of frost.

If it is at 10 to 15 and the compressor is cycling then there may be another problem.

Denman

So, things stayed about the same over the weekend. 42 in the fridge, 15 ish in the freezer. Both evaporator and condensor fan functions seem normal. Compressor tank just warm, not hot. Evap coils frosting evenly. (Fridge Control now set back to 7, Freezer damper at 2-3).

Out of frustration last night, I disconnected, ran and confirmed continuity on the Temperature Control (thermostat). It was fine.

So, my freezer is not cold enough to make Ice, although it did on the first night after I installed the new Evap fan motor. Does this sound like 2 seperate problems - the intermitant Evap fan motor (now replaced and fixed), and perhaps, a low freon issue?

Thanks.