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Maytag Dishwasher [FONT='Times New Roman','serif']PDB2430AWX will work fine until it gets to the next phase of the cycle. It can start on Heavy through light with or without delay. When it hits the "click" at the end of the wash cycle going into the rince cycle it will stay there forever and continue to run until you manually advance the knob past that "click". Then it hits the next "click" at the end of the rinse going into the dry cycle and stays there until you manually advance it. It works OK besides the stopping at these transition points from one cycle to the next. Reading other posts I am going to try to turn off the acutemp control but have not tried this yet. What should I try?[/FONT]
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Originally Posted by: rslusser1096  Maytag Dishwasher [FONT='Times New Roman','serif']PDB2430AWX will work fine until it gets to the next phase of the cycle. It can start on Heavy through light with or without delay. When it hits the "click" at the end of the wash cycle going into the rince cycle it will stay there forever and continue to run until you manually advance the knob past that "click". Then it hits the next "click" at the end of the rinse going into the dry cycle and stays there until you manually advance it. It works OK besides the stopping at these transition points from one cycle to the next. Reading other posts I am going to try to turn off the acutemp control but have not tried this yet. What should I try?[/font] RS, Yes, First thing to do is turn off the "accu temp" selection. And run a cycle. Also check and make sure, the water temperature in the tub, during the first fill cycle is at least 120 dgrs. At the end of the main wash cycle, if you have "accu temp" selected, the tub thermostat, removes power to the timer motor until it reaches temperature and closes the circuit, then the timer motor will advance. If your water temperature in the tub is too low, it will "stall" the timer until it reaches the proper temperature(140 - 150 dgrs.) I'm sure you'll have it figured out, from there. :) :) :)
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I had to turn off "Heat Water" and Acutemp, it rolls past the stopping point now and completes the cycle. As soon as I turned off the Heat water option the red light went out and it started to proceed to the next stage.
How do I check the coil and thermostat to determine which is the failing part. I can check continuity on the coil, but do I have to disconnect it first (I assume yes). and is it only continuity? should there be a resistance level or range... like 20-50 ohms? I have not checked to see how hot the water is when it stops but I assume it never gets too hot, I can put a meat thermomitor in it at that point and see if it is 140 or not. If above 140 at that point must be thermostat, if not 140 then the coil... right? Can you give me the service info on how to get these part out of the unit?
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Originally Posted by: rslusser1096 I had to turn off "Heat Water" and Acutemp, it rolls past the stopping point now and completes the cycle. As soon as I turned off the Heat water option the red light went out and it started to proceed to the next stage.
How do I check the coil and thermostat to determine which is the failing part. I can check continuity on the coil, but do I have to disconnect it first (I assume yes). and is it only continuity? should there be a resistance level or range... like 20-50 ohms? I have not checked to see how hot the water is when it stops but I assume it never gets too hot, I can put a meat thermomitor in it at that point and see if it is 140 or not. If above 140 at that point must be thermostat, if not 140 then the coil... right? Can you give me the service info on how to get these part out of the unit? RS, Everything you need to get to is easy access, once you remove the kick plate and lower access panel( 4 screws). You would use your meter, to check for a resistance, make sure you turn the power off first, Remove the wires from the components as you circuit test them. On the lowest (RX1) scale you should read, closed circuits(infinite resistance) on the heater and the hi limit thermostat (the thermostat with the red and blue wires). Part number: AP4114770
Part number: AP4113263
The boost thermostat will have brown and white wires on it, and will have an open circuit(no resistance) at room temperature(> than 125 dgrs). Part number: AP4114577
I'm pretty sure, when you do your checks, everything will be OK, And you'll know your problem is in the water temperature. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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You are using terms that are contrary to my understanding. Open circuit = infinate resistance, closed circuit is 0 or close to 0 resistance.
The heater coil and hi limit thermostat should be open (infinate) or closed (close to 0) at room temp... I would think closed or 0. The heater coil is just resistive metal, at least most heater coils I have seen are...
The boost termostat if open will be intinate at room temp.
Please clearify.
Thanks for you help. I will be sure to order the parts whatever it is from you guys.
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Originally Posted by: rslusser1096 You are using terms that are contrary to my understanding. Open circuit = infinate resistance, closed circuit is 0 or close to 0 resistance.
The heater coil and hi limit thermostat should be open (infinate) or closed (close to 0) at room temp... I would think closed or 0. The heater coil is just resistive metal, at least most heater coils I have seen are...
The boost termostat if open will be intinate at room temp.
Please clearify.
Thanks for you help. I will be sure to order the parts whatever it is from you guys. RS, You have it backwards, unless you have a different multi meter . Infinite/closed circuit, would be 000 or "CL" for closed circuit on most digital meters, and an analog meter the needle should swing all the way to the right of the display panel. No resistance/open circuit, would be 0 or "OP" for open circuit, on a digital meter, and an analog meter, the needle won't move from the left side of the display panel. Here's a better explanation,more intricate explanation, http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.htmlYou'll have it checked out and repaired in no time. :) :) :)
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This is an excerpt from the link you sent me [This is where the Digital meter will display the information. If you were checking a bake element that is supposed to have 10 Ohms resistance, the number 10 will appear here if the element is OK. If when testing the element, the meter shows OL, it means that the element is open. In Digital meter speak, OL (Open Line or Overload, depending on the function the meter is being used for) means the same thing as Infinity in an Analog meter.]
Also from that same document;
Bake elements and surface unit elements will have a relatively low resistance, so the Rx1 scale can be used to check them. If a meter shows Infinity when an element is tested, the element is open (broken) and needs replacing.
I am an electical engineer, trust me your terms are backward and the document sent to me proves this as well. But since you mixed your terms I am still confused on if I looking for open or closed circuits on the termostats. Open circuits read OL for open line or Infinate on an analog. A closed circuit will show some resistance, in most hearter elements it is from 10-200 ohms depending on the wattage. Thermostats are of 2 varities, nominal open or nominal close, which means at room temp they are either open or closed respective. Open being infinint, closed being 0. I know how to check the heater coil.
The thermostats are what are in question. Are they closed (0) at room temp or open (infinate) at room temp.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by: rslusser1096 This is an excerpt from the link you sent me [This is where the Digital meter will display the information. If you were checking a bake element that is supposed to have 10 Ohms resistance, the number 10 will appear here if the element is OK. If when testing the element, the meter shows OL, it means that the element is open. In Digital meter speak, OL (Open Line or Overload, depending on the function the meter is being used for) means the same thing as Infinity in an Analog meter.] Also from that same document;
Bake elements and surface unit elements will have a relatively low resistance, so the Rx1 scale can be used to check them. If a meter shows Infinity when an element is tested, the element is open (broken) and needs replacing. I am an electical engineer, trust me your terms are backward and the document sent to me proves this as well. But since you mixed your terms I am still confused on if I looking for open or closed circuits on the termostats. Open circuits read OL for open line or Infinate on an analog. A closed circuit will show some resistance, in most hearter elements it is from 10-200 ohms depending on the wattage. Thermostats are of 2 varities, nominal open or nominal close, which means at room temp they are either open or closed respective. Open being infinint, closed being 0. I know how to check the heater coil. The thermostats are what are in question. Are they closed (0) at room temp or open (infinate) at room temp.
Thanks To answer your basic question, The high limit thermostat should be a closed circuit at room temperature, or below 250 dgrees. Your "Temp Boost" thermostat, will be an open circuit at room temperature, and should close at a temperature of 140 degrees. The heater element will also be a closed circuit, at room temperature, All of these circuit/resistance checks, will be conducted, with your meter set at RK1 or the lowest resistance setting on your meter. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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